Patterns Possible PulloverI got the idea for this sweater after my boyfriend of 5 years broke up with me in July. Ive been calling it The break-up sweater, but have decided on a new name – the possible pullover. 2 years ago this break up would have sent me spiralling. I would have lost myself, probably relapsed. Doing anything would have felt impossible. But, instead of that I leaned in and got support. All my therapy came rushing back and it felt possible to continue on. It hurt, and I was able to hold that and not internalize it. Not blame myself and shrivel. Instead I continued designing, and launching a dyeing business.So remember, it’s possible. The possible pullover is an oversized, cozy pullover with a v-neck and big pockets. It is worked from the bottom up and seamless other than shoulder seams and seaming on the pockets – but it is made in one piece This pattern is available in the following sizes in (with finished chest measurements) Child sizes:18M (21”), 2T (23”), 4T (25”), 6 (27”), 8 (29”), 10 (30”), 12 (32”), 14 (35”) Adult Sizes:xs (36”), sm (40”), md (44”), lg (48”), xl (52”), 2x (56”), 3x (60”), 4x (64”), 5x (68”), 6x (72”) Available for purchase on Ravelry... Read more...Scrap WrapThe Scrap wrap is the perfect solution for all those beautiful single skeins you have lying around in your stash. It is a simple pattern, easy to adjust for size, and yields a beautiful wrap, or scarf. You can purchase an ad free PDF of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy A huge thanks to my testers: Debby’s haaksels Kristen: @themindieraesKate: @katedenyse@rinnycass@carrieperlf@Nicolemwardin @themindieraes Materials Yarn: 5 colors of yarn – 231 yards each – 1155 yards total Colors are referred to in the pattern as Color A, B, C. D, and E My yarn is Cuppa Love, Dreamin of Rhinebeck, and Gingersnaps by Mitchell’s Creations on DK, OOAK from Onyx Fiber Arts on DK, and Wingaersheek from Lady Dye Yarns on DK Hook: K/6.5mm hook or size needed to approximate gauge Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors Gauge: While gauge is not vital – 13sc x 20 rows = 4 inches – you may also work to measurement Sizing: 7‘x18” Pattern Key (US Terms) CA – Color ACB – Color BCC – Color CCD – Color DCE – Color Efsc – foundation single crochetst – Stitchsk – skipyo – yarn overfo – finish offch – chainsc – single crochethdc – half double crochetdec – decrease Special Stitches dec: insert hook in next st, yo, pull up loop, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up loop, yo pull through all. fsc – For help with the Foundation Single Crochet there’s a great tutorial with pictures and video here: https://persialou.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc-photo/ Pattern Notes (read before starting): You can purchase an ad free PDF of this pattern on Ravelry or EtsyThe turning chain does not count as a stitchIf your work begins to twist it’s fine and expected. You can block it out at the endFor a less long product you can remove rows 71-140 and use only 4 colorsIf you are using a heavier weight yarn you can remove rows from the even sections – each section should measure 12” @themindieraes Pattern Instructions: With CA, fsc 2 OR ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch Row 1: ch 1, turn; sc, 2 sc in next st Row 2: ch 1, turn; sc across Row 3: ch 1, turn; sc across until 1 st remains, 2 sc in last st repeat rows 2 and 3, 56 more times, until you have 59 stitches in your row or until it’s 18” wide. Repeat row 2 Working Even: Row 1: with CB, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc Row 2: with CA, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc repeat row 1 and 2, 4 more times for a total of 10 rows Row 11-70: with CB, ch 1, turn; sc in each st across – or until 12” long Row 71: with CC, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc Row 72: with CB, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc repeat row 71 and 72, 4 more times for a total of 10 rows Row 81-140: with CC, ch 1, turn; sc in each st across -or until 12” long Row 141: with CD, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc Row 142: with CC, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc repeat row 141 and 142, 4 more times for a total of 10 rows Row 151-210: using CD, ch 1, turn; sc in each st across – or until 12” long Row 211: with CE, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc Row 212: with CD, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc repeat row 211 and 212, 4 more times for a total of 10 rows @themindieraes Decrease – if working to measurement make sure you are decreasing on the same side you increased with CA Row 221: with CE: ch 1, turn; sc in each st Row 222: ch 1, turn; sc in each st until 2 sts remain, dec repeat rows 221 and 222 until 2 stitch remain ch 1, dec. Finish off Block to get rid of any twisting that may have occurred. Tie the ends in loose knots to complete the look You can purchase an ad free PDF of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy... Read more...Dragonfruit ShawlI’d like to present the dragonfruit shawl! This oversized 5-point shawl is the perfect, stylish blanket to keep you warm and fancy. It’s a combination of 3 stitches to give different textures in each section. You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy Share your work: #dragonfruitshawl @leroocrochet Difficulty Intermediate @themindieraes Materials Yarn: 960 yards of hand dyed, indie worsted yarn or store dk440 yards – Color A (CA) – Hot Pink in sample220 yards – Color B (CB) – Pink Speckles in sample300 yards – Color C (CC) – Gray in Sample Hook: K/6.5mm hook or size needed to achieve gauge Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, 3 stitch markers Gauge: 15 ldc x 10 rows after blocking – Not super important, aim for 16 x 11 rows before blocking Sizing: 60″ x 36″ Pattern Key (US Terms) st – Stitchsk – skipss – slip stitchyo – yarn overfo – finish offch – chainsc – single crochethdc – half double crochetdc – double crochetldc – linked double crochetfpdc – front post double crochetbpdc – back post double crochetv-st – V-Stitch Special Stitches ldc – insert your hook into the horizontal loop of the previous dc or ldc, yo, pull up loop, and proceed as you would for a dc. For a good tutorial see: https://www.mooglyblog.com/linked-double-crochet/ v-st – (dc, ch 1, dc) in same stitch Pattern Notes (read before starting): Turning chains do not count as a stitchThis pattern is worked with 3 corners, so every row these corners are worked as a ch, st, ch in the st of the corner in the previous rowEach row adds 6 stitchesYou can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy Reading stitch counts Throughout the pattern you’ll see numbers in italics at the end of a row. The number in brackets is the total number of sc/dc/hdcs you did in that row, including the stitches in the corners. The numbers that follow are referring to the stitch counts of each side before and after the chain spaces. This image shows Section 1, Row 5. it has 5 scs per short side, 10 per long side, and 3 corner scs. So the count would look like 5, 10, 10, 5 Pattern Instructions: Section 1 – CA Foundation: ch 4, sl st in the 4th ch from the hook to form a loop. Work row 1 in the center of the loop. Row 1: ch 2, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc Row 2: ch 2, turn; dc in next st, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc in next 2 sts and ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc in next 2 sts and ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc. Row 3: ch 2, turn; dc in next st, ldc, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc in next 4 sts and ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc in next 4 sts and ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, 2 ldc. Row 4: ch 2, turn; dc in next st, ldc in next 2 sts, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc in next 6 sts and ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc in next 6 sts and ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, 3 ldc Row 5: change to CB, ch 1, turn; sc in next 4 sts, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in next dc, sc in ch sp, sc in next 8 sts and ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in next dc, sc in ch sp, sc in next 8 sts, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in next dc, sc in ch sp, sc in next 4 sts 5, 10, 10, 5 Row 6: change to CA, ch 1, turn; sc in next 5 sts, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in next sc, sc in ch sp, sc in next 10 sts and ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in next sc, sc in ch sp, sc in next 10 sts, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in next sc, sc in ch sp, sc in next 5 sts 6, 12, 12, 6 Section 2 – CB Row 1 and 2: change to CB, ch 2, turn; *ldc in each st until you reach the ch sp, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, ldc in remaining sts Row 3: ch 2, turn; *dc in each st until you reach the ch sp, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, dc in remaining sts 9, 18, 18, 9 Row 4: ch 2, turn; hdc in the first st, * across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp* repeat from * to * one more time, across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp, until 1 stitch remains, hdc @themindieraes Row 5: ch 2, turn; hdc in the first st, * across until you reach the last st, bpdc, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp* repeat from * to * one more time, bpdc, across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st,, hdc in ch sp, until 1 stitch remains, hdc Row 6: change to CC, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 12, 24, 24, 12 Row 7: change to CB, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 13, 26, 26, 13 Section 3 – CC Row 1: change to CC, ch 2, turn; dc, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until 1 st remain before ch sp, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp, sk 1, *v-st in next st, sk 2,* repeat from * to * until ch sp, sk ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,sk ch sp, * v-st in next st, sk 2,* repeat from * to * until 1 st remains before ch sp, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, sk 1, * v-st in next st, sk 2,* repeat from * to * until 2 sts remain, sk 1, dc Row 2: ch 2, turn;dc, v-st in the ch space of each v-st across, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, move marker, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp, dc, v-st in the ch space of each v-st, dc, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, move marker, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp, v-st in next st, v-st in the ch space of each v-st, dc, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, move marker, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch space of each v-st, dc in last st row 3: change to CA, removing markers as you go, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 16, 32, 32, 16 row 4: change to CC, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 17, 34, 34, 17 Section 4- CA row 1 – 5: change to CA, ch 2, turn; dc, *ldc in each st until you reach the ch sp, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, ldc in remaining sts Row 6: change to CB, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 23, 46, 46, 23 Row 7: change to CA, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 24, 48, 48, 24 Section 5 – CB Row 1 and 2: change to CB, ch 2, turn; *ldc in each st until you reach the ch sp, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, ldc in remaining sts Row 3: ch 2, turn; *dc in each st until you reach the ch sp, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, dc in remaining sts 27, 54, 54, 27 Row 4: ch 2, turn; hdc in the first st, * across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp* repeat from * to * one more time, across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp, for the remainder of the row Row 5: ch 2, turn; hdc in the first st, * across until you reach the last st, bpdc, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp* repeat from * to * one more time, bpdc, across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp, for the remainder of the row Row 6: change to CC, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 30, 60, 60, 30 Row 7: change to CB, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 31, 62, 62, 31 Section 6 – CC Row 1: change to CC, ch 2, turn;dc, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until 1 st remains before chsp, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until you reach the last st before the ch sp, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch-sp, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until one st remains before ch sp, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, sk 1, * v-st in next st, sk 2,* repeat from * to * until 2 sts remain, sk 1, dc Row 2: ch 2, turn;dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st Row 3:, ch 2, turn;dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st Row 4: ch 2, turn;dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1,dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp, v-st in first dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, (ch 1 ,dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st Row 5: change to CA, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 36, 72, 72, 36 Row 6: change to CC, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 37, 74, 74, 37 Section 7 – CA row 1 – 10: change to CA, ch 2, turn; dc *ldc in each st until you reach the ch sp, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, ldc in remaining sts Row 11: change to CB, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 48, 96, 96, 48 @themindieraes Row 12: change to CA, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 49, 98, 98, 49 Section 8 – CB Row 1: change to CB, ch 2, turn; *dc in each st until you reach the ch sp, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, dc in remaining sts 50, 100, 100, 50 Row 2: ch 2, turn; hdc in the first st, * across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch ) in corner st1, hdc in ch sp* repeat from * to * one more time, across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp, for the remainder of the row Row 3: ch 2, turn; hdc in the first st, * across until you reach the last st, bpdc, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp* repeat from * to * one more time, bpdc, across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp, for the remainder of the row Row 4: change to CC, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 53, 106, 106, 53 Row 5: change to CB, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 54, 108, 108, 54 Section 9 – CC Row 1: change to CC, ch 2, turn; dc, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until 3 st remains before ch sp, sk 1, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until 1 st remains before the ch sp, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until 1 st remains before the ch sp, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dk in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, * v-st in next st, sk 2,* repeat from * to * until 2 sts remain, sk 1, dc Row 2: ch 2, turn;dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st Row 3: ch 2, turn;dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st Row 4: ch 2, turn;dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st Row 5: ch 2, turn;dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st Row 6: ch 2, turn;dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st Row 7: ch 2, turn;dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st Row 8: ch 2, turn;dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st Row 9: change to CA, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 63, 126, 126, 63 Row 10: change to CC, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 64, 128, 128, 64 Edge: Row 1: change to CA, ch 2, sk 1, *hdc, hdc in skipped st, sk 1*, repeat from * to * until you reach the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in the corner st, hdc in ch sp, sk 1, *hdc, hdc in skipped st, sk 1*, repeat from * to * until you reach the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in the corner st, hdc in ch sp, sk 1, *hdc, hdc in skipped st, sk 1*, repeat from * to * until you reach the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in the corner st, hdc in ch sp, sk 1, *hdc, hdc in skipped st, sk 1*, repeat from * to * until one st remains, hdc. Row 2: change to CB, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts 66, 132, 132, 66 You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy Huge thank you to my testers:@turquoisepalmRuthie at Dragonfly CreationsKristen @themindieraes... Read more...Coffeeshop CardiganHi Everyone! I’d like to present, the Coffeeshop Cardigan! This cardigan is so cozy. It’s beautifully oversized, with big sleeves and a cinched cuff (I’m pointing that out specifically because I love a baggy sleeve with a nice fitted cuff). ALSO it’s reversible. See, the way I’m wearing it, the color stripes are more subtle and the white is center stage. However, if I turn it inside out the colors really pop! You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy Share your work: #coffeeshopcardi @leroocrochet Materials Yarn: Vanilla Bean, Blueberry Muffin, Pumpkin Spice and Spilled Coffee on DK from Handmade Home Fibers However any dk weight or worsted weight yarn will work. Worsted will produce a heavier, warmer cardigan and dk a lighter, springier one Yardage is as follows: xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x total yardage 1500 1600 1700 1850 2000 2150 2300 2450 2600 2700 main color 1019 1082 1145 1239 1334 1428 1523 1617 1712 1805 Hook: 6.5mm hook or size needed to achieve gauge and a hook 1 or 2 sizes smaller Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors Gauge: 16 ehdc x 10 rows = 4” x 4” Sizing: This is designed with plenty of room to fit the following bust sizes xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x 30” 34” 38” 42” 46” 50” 54” 58” 62” 66” If you are between sizes, size down for a less oversized fit. Pattern Key (US Terms) st – Stitchsk – skipss – slip stitchyo – yarn overfo – finish offch – chainfsc – Foundation Single Crochetsc – single crochethdc – half double crochetehdc – extended half double crochetdec – decrease Special Stitches ehdc – Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through one loop, yo pull through all loopsdec – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up loop, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through all loops Pattern Notes (read before starting): Turning chains do not count as a stitchFor help with the Foundation Single Crochet there’s a great tutorial with pictures and video here: https://persialou.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc-photo/While you CAN carry your yarn, this cardigan is reversible if striped, so if you’d like to wear it both ways, cut your yarn after each color change and weave. You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy Pattern Instructions: the sizes are referenced as follows: xs (sm, md, lg, xl, 2x, 3x, 4x, 5x, 6x) In main color: Foundation: 148 (164, 180, 196, 212, 228, 244, 260, 276, 292) fsc Row 1: ch 2, turn; ehdc in each st At this point your project should measure 37 (41, 45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65, 69, 73) inches – if it’s too long adjust your hook size Change to a secondary color: Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across Alternating between the main color and a secondary color: *Repeat row 2 35 more times for a total of 37 rows – do not finish off *Note: For a longer cardigan, add more rows here. For a shorter cardigan, remove some rows Panel 1: Using main color Row 1: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in the next 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68) sts, leaving remaining stitches empty. Place a stitch marker in next unworked st Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across Repeat row 2 15 (16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21) more times for a total of 17 (18, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23) rows, finish off leaving a long tail Back Panel: Using main color, attach your yarn in the same stitch as your stitch marker Row 1: ch 2, working in third loop, ehdc in the next 84 (92, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132, 140, 148, 156) sts, leaving remaining stitches empty. Place a stitch marker in next unworked st Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across Repeat row 2 15 (16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21) more times for a total of 17 (18, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23) rows, finish off Panel 2: Using main color, attach your yarn in the same stitch as your stitch marker Row 1: ch 2; working in third loop, ehdc in the next 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68) sts Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across Repeat row 2 15 (16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21) more times for a total of 17 (18, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23) rows. Finish off leaving a long tale Seam the Shoulders Lay your work flat and fold your side panels over. Seam along the top to close the top of the shoulders with a whip stitch. Sleeves – work on both sides: With wrong side facing (the side where the main color is less visible in the stripes) – Attach your main color yarn to the post of the first row of panel 1. Row 1: ch 2, hdc in same post. Work around the stitch posts, hdc in next row, hdc in between next row , *hdc in next two rows, hdc in between next row* repeat from * to * until you reach the shoulder seam hdc into the shoulder seam. Repeat from * to * to the last row. hdc in the two ehdcs of the last row of the body: Sl St into the ch 2 to join *note: for a larger arm hole, work 2 hdcs per row. Change to secondary color Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across until 2 sts remain, dec, sl st into the ch 2 to join Row 3-7: repeat row 2, alternating between main color and secondary color Row 8: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across. Sl St into the ch 2 to join Alternating between main and secondary color, repeat row 8 until you have 32 rows total – or until the sleeve is about 1 inch too short for your arm. Row 33: ch 2, turn; working in all loops, *hdc, dec* repeat from * to * around, Sl St into the ch 2 to join Row 34: ch 2, turn; *hdc, dec* repeat form * to * around. Sl St into the ch 2 to join Finish off Sleeve Ribbing Using a smaller hook, and a secondary color, attach your yarn to the cuff of your sleeve – wrong side still facing. Row 1: ch 10, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across , sl st in 2nd st of your cuff, ch 1, sl st in next st of the cuff, turn. Row 2: hdc in third loop across Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc in third loop of st across, sl st in next st of your cuff, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn Repeat row 2 and 3 around. Slip Stitch the back loop of both sides together to seam the cuff. Finish off Finding the cuff too big? Either lower your hook size, or skip a cuff st every 4 rows – so you cover 5 cuff sts every 4 rib rows. Edging Attach main color to one of the bottom, inside corners of the body. Row 1: ch 2, hdc evenly up around the neck and back down the body of the cardigan following the same method as row 1 of the sleeves (3 hdc for every 2 rows) – for the neck line, do only 1 hdc in each st. Do not work along the bottom of the cardigan yet Row 2-4: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st Bottom Ribbing – Switch to a smaller hook (but don’t finish off) Row 1: Ch 7, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across , sl st into the first last row of edging, ch 1, sl st into the next row, turn Row 2: hdc in third loop across Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across , sl st into the first last row of edging, ch 1, sl st into the next row, turn Row 4: hdc in third loop across Row 5: ch 1, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across , sl st into the next st of the fsc, ch 1, st st into the next st, turn Repeat row 4 and 5 across. Finish Off. If you’re finding the ribbing wavy, either lower your hook size, or skip a fsc st ever 4 rows – so you cover 5 fsc sts every 4 rib rows. weave in your ends and block if needed You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy... Read more...Daylily TankThe daylily tank came to life from the yarn. The beautiful lace top is flowery and adds such interest to this simple tank without adding difficulty. It is also super easy to adjust the length so you can make it your own! Share your work: #daylilytank @leroocrochet You can purchase an ad-free version of this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry Materials Yarn: For the single color top I used Springfetti from LeRoo Cotton For color block top I used Zeppelin and Lilac from Threadhead Knits However any dk weight yarn will work. Some good alternatives are sugarwheel cotton from Hobby Lobby, Cotton Bamboo from Lion Brand, Cotton Jeans from Lion Brand, Joy DK from Michaels. Asia at yarnfixation.com Yardage is as follows: xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x yardage 544 599 654 740 826 913 998 1084 1170 1260 Hook: 5mm hook or size needed to achieve gauge Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends Gauge: 16 dc x 8 rows = 4” x 4”: Sizing: xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x 30” 34” 38” 42” 46” 50” 54” 58” 62” 66” Pattern Key (US Terms) st – Stitchsk – skipss – slip stitchyo – yarn overfo – finish offch – chainfsc – Foundation Single Crochetdc – double crochetdc2tog – double crochet two together Pattern Notes (read before starting): Turning chains count as a stitchThis pattern is written starting around the bust. The lace top is worked up on the fsc, then the body is worked in the round by flipping the project crocheting into the bottom of the fscFor help with the Foundation Single Crochet there’s a great tutorial with pictures and video here: https://persialou.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc-photo/It is important to use a fsc instead of a chain for the stretch the fsc offersYou can purchase an ad-free version of this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry Jenna at ravelry.com/designers/jst Pattern Instructions: Lace Front: Foundation: 120 (134, 148, 176, 190, 204, 218, 232, 246, 260) fsc, join in a loop with a ss making sure not to twist your row row 1: ch 3, (counts as dc) dc in next 2 sts, *sk 2 (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st, sk 2, dc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * 7 (8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17) more times, dc in next st – leave remaining sts unworked row 2: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in between 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc*, repeat from * to * until 1 st remains. dc repeat row 2, 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16) more times, for 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18) rows total or until it measures 4 (4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) inches Strap 1: row 1: ch 3, turn, 2dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times, 2 dc in next chain space row 2: ch 3, turn, sk 2, 2 dc in between two dcs, * (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch sp, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times, dc in next st row 3: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more time, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, dc in turning chain row 4: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in next chain space, 2 dc between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times, dc in next st row 5: ch 3, turn; dc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next st, sc in next st, sc in ch space, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times, dc in next 2 sts, fo Strap 2: reattach yarn in the 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) ch space from the left row 1: ch 3, dc in ch space, 2dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times, dc in last st row 2: ch 3, turn; 2dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times, dc in turning ch row 3: ch 3, turn; *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times, dc in last st row 4: ch 3, turn, 2dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times, 2 dc in next ch sp, dc in turning space row 5: ch 3, turn, dc in next 3 sts, *hdc, sc in next 3 sts, hdc, dc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * across, dc in last st fo Lace Back: turn your work so the front panel is on the bottom, making sure you haven’t twisted your foundation stitch, attach your yarn to the first unworked st row 1: ch 3, (counts as dc) dc in next 2 sts, *sk 2 (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st, sk 2, dc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * 7 (8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17) more times, dc in next st row 2: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in between 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc*, repeat from * to * until 1 st remains. dc repeat row 2, 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18) more times, for 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) rows total or until it measures 5 (5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5) inches Strap 1: row 1: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more time, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, dc in between next 2 dc row 2: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in next chain space, 2dc between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times, dc in turning ch row 3: ch 3, turn; dc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next st, sc in next st, sc in ch space, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times, dc in last 2 sts, fo leaving a long tail Strap 2: attach yarn between the 2 dc after the 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) double (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) row 1: ch 3, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times, dc in last st row 2: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times, 2 dc in next ch sp, dc in turning space row 3: ch 3, turn, dc in next 3 sts, *hdc, sc in next 3 sts, hdc, dc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * across, dc in last st fo leaving a long tail Whip Stitch the top of the arms together @va1erie Body: Flip your project so the fsc is at the top. Attach your yarn under the armpit on the unworked side of the fsc. Want a boxier look? Skip the waist shaping by following row 20 until you reach your desired length. For the first 8 rows, you will be decreasing 2 stitches each row under the armpit, if you’d prefer not to count, dc2tog in the first 2 stitches and in the armpit row 1: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 58 (65, 71, 86, 93, 100, 107, 114, 121, 128), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 2: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 57 (64, 70, 85, 92, 99, 106, 113, 120, 127), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 3: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 56 (63, 69, 84, 91, 98, 105, 112, 119, 126), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 4: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 55 (62, 68, 83, 90, 97, 104, 111, 118, 125), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 5: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 54 (61, 67, 82, 89, 96, 103, 110, 117, 124), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 6: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 53 (60, 66, 81, 88, 95, 102, 109, 116, 123), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 7: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 52 (59, 65, 80, 87, 94, 101, 108, 115, 122), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 8: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 51 (58, 64, 79, 86, 93, 100, 107, 114, 121), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join Row 9 – 11: ch 3, turn; dc in each st across, ss into turning chain to join For the next 8 rows, you will be increasing 2 stitches each row under the armpit, if you’d prefer not to count, dc twice in first st, then dc twice in one st under the other armpit row 12: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 52 (59, 65, 80, 87, 94, 101, 108, 115, 122), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 13: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 53 (60, 66, 81, 88, 95, 102, 109, 116, 123), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 14: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 54 (61, 67, 82, 89, 96, 103, 110, 117, 124), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 15: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 55 (62, 68, 83, 90, 97, 104, 111, 118, 125), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 16: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 56 (63, 69, 84, 91, 98, 105, 112, 119, 126), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 17: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 57 (64, 70, 85, 92, 99, 106, 113, 120, 127), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 18: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 58 (65, 71, 86, 93, 100, 105, 114, 121, 128), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 19: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 59 (66, 72, 87, 94, 101, 108, 115, 122, 129), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join row 20 – 30: ch 3, turn; dc in each st around, ss into the turning chain to join watch your gauge during these rows, most people have a tendency to loosen their stitches as they go you can shorten your top by doing fewer rows, and add length by doing more – this will affect yardage You can purchase an ad-free version of this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry @themindieraes Testers: A huge thank you to my testers Asia at yarnfixation.comJenna at ravelry.com/designers/jstKate @KatedenyseKari at Crocheted Creations By KariKathy Hungerford PaquetteKristen @themindieraesLiza from Liz_knotsshannonrogers760Tiffany of @themodestbungalowValerie www.instagram.com/va1erie... Read more...Celeste Fade Cardigan*this post contains affiliated links The celeste cardigan came to life when I opened a package of yarn and saw the beautiful fade potential. I love the look of fades and these colors were just screaming for the treatment. This pattern is done almost entirely with crossed half double crochets and back loop only half double crochets, making it carefree to work on, with no complicated pattern to remember. But the end result is a gorgeous off the rack look. Plus the only seaming is for the pocket! Share your work with #CelesteCardigan and @leroocrochet Purchase an ad-free version of this pattern – which includes extra pictures and a color change chart on etsy or ravelry Materials Yarn: I used Cosy Posy’s cloud base in the following colors:Color A: MapleColor B: LakehouseColor C: Wood Burning OutsideColor D: Moonstone However any fingering weight yarn will work. Testers used: WoolLike or Cambria by Loops and Threads, Cascade Heritage, Lion Brand Dotted Line, It’s a Wrap by Red Heart and Lion’s Brand Summer Nights Yardage is as follows: xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x a,b,c 200 275 350 425 500 575 650 725 800 875 d 400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 pockets 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 total 1100 1425 1750 2075 2400 2725 3050 3375 3700 4025 a, b, and c refers to the yardage you need of each color Pockets can be made in any color, they’re on the inside so you can use a mix as well Hook: 7/4.5mm hook or size needed to achieve gauge, and a size smaller for the ribbing, in my case I used a F/3.75mm Notions: 4 stitch markers, Yarn needle for weaving in ends, Scissors Gauge: 21st x 15 rows = 4”x4” chain 23, in 4th ch from hook hdc, hdc backwards in 3rd chain, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat across until 1 stitch remains, hdcch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped stitch* repeat across until one stitch remains, hdcrepeat until you have 15 rows – swatch should be 4”x4” Sizing: This cardigan measures 29” long and has a 4 inch ease and is designed to fit the following bust sizes. xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x 30” 34” 38” 42” 46” 50” 54” 58” 62” 66” Pattern Key (US Terms) st – Stitchsl st – slip stitchyo – yarn overfo – finish offch – chainfsc – Foundation Single Crochethdc- half double crochetblo – back loop only Pattern Notes (read before starting): Purchase an ad-free version of this pattern – which includes extra pictures and a color change chart on etsy or ravelryChains at beginning of each row do NOT count as a stitchThis pattern is written working up the back, then down the front. I’ll be referring to the individual parts as “panels” but back panel and front panel 1 are worked without finishing off, and panel 2 is worked directly from the back panel. As a whole, this cardigan is worked as one piece and requires minimal seaming to add pockets For color fade see the last page for a chart of color changesFor help with the Foundation Single Crochet there’s a great tutorial with pictures and video here: https://persialou.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc-photo/ Caryn @crochetingwithcaryn Pattern Instructions: Back Panel: Foundation: 95 (105, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155, 165, 175, 185) fsc Row 1: ch 2, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st. Row 2: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st. Row 3 – 105: Repeat row 2. Do not finish off Front Panel 1: Row 106: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch – leave the remainder of the stitches unworked Row 107 – 129 (131, 133, 135, 137, 139, 141, 143, 145, 147): Repeat row 106 @gracitablom *Row 130 (132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 142, 144, 146, 148): sl st into the post of last st on row 80 (78, 76, 74, 72, 70, 68, 66, 64, 62) of the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in last stitch Row 177: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12) more times, ch 32, sk 32 sts (16 crossed hdcs), *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11) more times, hdc in last stitch Row 178: sl st into the post of last st on the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11) more times, *sk 1 ch, hdc in next ch, hdc in skipped ch* repeat from * to * 15 more times, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12) more times hdc in last stitch Row 179: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch Row 180: sl st into the post of last st on the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in last stitch @smilenstiches Front Panel 2: Repeat row 179 and 180 until you have 210 rows in total. Finish off Return to the top of the back panel. Start at the unworked corner and count 36 (42, 46, 52, 56, 62, 66, 72, 76, 82) sts back. Attach your yarn. Row 106: ch 2; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch Row 107: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch Row 107 – 129 (131, 133, 135, 137, 139, 141, 143, 145, 147): Repeat row 107 @gracitablom *Row 130 (132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 142, 144, 146, 148): ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch, sl st into the post of last st on row 80 (78, 76, 74, 72, 70, 68, 66, 64, 62) of the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row, turn Row 177: *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11) more times, ch 32, sk 32 sts (16 crossed hdcs), *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12) more times, hdc in last stitch Row 178: sl st into the post of last st on the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12) more times, *sk 1 ch, hdc in next ch, hdc in skipped ch* repeat from * to * 15 more times, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11) more times hdc in last stitch Row 179: *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch Row 180: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch, sl st into the post of last st on back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row, turn Repeat row 179 and 180 until you have 210 rows in total do not finish off @read.crochet.repeat Ribbing – bottom of cardigan Using your smaller hook Row 1: ch 10, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across , sl st in 2nd st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn. Row 2: hdc blo across Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc blo in each st across, sl st in next st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn Repeat rows 2 and 3 across the bottom of your cardigan, finishing on row 2. Do not finish off Ribbing – body of cardigan: Using your smaller hook Row 1: ch 14, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across , sl st in 2nd st of your bottom ribbing, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn. Row 2: hdc blo across Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc blo in each st across, sl st in next st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn Repeat rows 2 and 3 up your front panel, around the top of the back panel, and down the second front panel until you reach the last row of your bottom ribbing. FO Ribbing – Arms (do for both arm holes): Using your smaller hook attach yarn to the base of the arm hole. Row 1: ch 10, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across , sl st in 2nd st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn. Row 2: hdc blo across Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc blo in each st across, sl st in next st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn Repeat rows 2 and 3 across the arm hole, finishing on row 2, FO leaving a long tail. Seam together the two ends of the arm ribbing. FO @nicolemwardin Pockets (do 2): Switch back to standard hook With wrong side facing, attach your yarn to the post of the hdc before the 32 ch space, leaving a long tale Work along the skipped crossed half double crochets: Row 1: ch 2, working in top loop only, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across [16 crossed hdcs], hdc in post of the hdc after the ch 32 gap. Row 2: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across until one st remains, hdc in last st Row 3 – 30: repeat row 2 Finish off. Using the starting tail and a yarn needle, sew the pocket to the back of the sweater, sewing the bottom 29 rows below the ch 32 pocket hole and up along both sides. Finish up your cardigan by weaving in ends – blocking if necessary. Big thank you to my testers: Caryn @crochetingwithcarynErin @anxiouslycraftedGracita @gracitablomJenn @muster.patternKelly jamesKristen @themindieraesLindsay @thaddythechi_andlinny@michellej4001@NicolemwardinNikki at smileNstitchesRobyn @read.crochet.repeatShannon Purchase an ad-free version of this pattern – which includes extra pictures and a color change chart on etsy or ravelry... Read more... See More Find Me On Instragram View on Instagram
