Pattern, Scarf

Scrap Wrap

The Scrap wrap is the perfect solution for all those beautiful single skeins you have lying around in your stash. 

It is a simple pattern, easy to adjust for size, and yields a beautiful wrap, or scarf.  

You can purchase an ad free PDF of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy

A huge thanks to my testers: 
Debby’s haaksels 
Kristen: @themindieraes
Kate: @katedenyse
@rinnycass
@carrieperlf
@Nicolemwardin

@themindieraes

Materials

Yarn: 5 colors of yarn – 231 yards each – 1155 yards total

Colors are referred to in the pattern as Color A, B, C. D, and E

My yarn is Cuppa Love, Dreamin of Rhinebeck, and Gingersnaps by Mitchell’s Creations on DK, OOAK from Onyx Fiber Arts on DK, and Wingaersheek from Lady Dye Yarns on DK

Hook: K/6.5mm hook or size needed to approximate gauge

Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors

Gauge: While gauge is not vital – 13sc x 20 rows = 4 inches – you may also work to measurement

Sizing: 7‘x18”

Pattern Key (US Terms)

CA – Color A
CB – Color B
CC – Color C
CD – Color D
CE – Color E
fsc – foundation single crochet
st – Stitch
sk – skip
yo – yarn over
fo – finish off
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dec – decrease

Special Stitches 

dec: insert hook in next st, yo, pull up loop, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up loop, yo pull through all. 

fsc – For help with the Foundation Single Crochet there’s a great tutorial with pictures and video here: https://persialou.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc-photo/

Pattern Notes (read before starting):

  • You can purchase an ad free PDF of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy
  • The turning chain does not count as a stitch
  • If your work begins to twist it’s fine and expected. You can block it out at the end
  • For a less long product you can remove rows 71-140 and use only 4 colors
  • If you are using a heavier weight yarn you can remove rows from the even sections – each section should measure 12”
@themindieraes

Pattern Instructions:

With CA, fsc 2 OR ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch

Row 1: ch 1, turn; sc, 2 sc in next st 

Row 2: ch 1, turn; sc across

Row 3: ch 1, turn; sc across until 1 st remains, 2 sc in last st

repeat rows 2 and 3, 56 more times, until you have 59 stitches in your row or until it’s 18” wide. 

Repeat row 2 [59]

Working Even:

Row 1: with CB, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc

Row 2: with CA, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc

repeat row 1 and 2, 4 more times for a total of 10 rows

Row 11-70: with CB, ch 1, turn; sc in each st across [59 sc]  – or until 12” long

Row 71: with CC, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc

Row 72: with CB, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc

repeat row 71 and 72, 4 more times for a total of 10 rows

Row 81-140: with CC, ch 1, turn; sc in each st across [59 sc] -or until 12” long

Row 141: with CD, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc

Row 142: with CC, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc

repeat row 141 and 142, 4 more times for a total of 10 rows

Row 151-210: using CD, ch 1, turn; sc in each st across [59 sc] – or until 12” long

Row 211: with CE, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc

Row 212: with CD, ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st*, repeat across until 1 st remains. hdc

repeat row 211 and 212, 4 more times for a total of 10 rows

@themindieraes

Decrease – if working to measurement make sure you are decreasing on the same side you increased with CA

Row 221: with CE: ch 1, turn; sc in each st 

Row 222: ch 1, turn; sc in each st until 2 sts remain, dec

repeat rows 221 and 222 until 2 stitch remain

ch 1, dec. Finish off

Block to get rid of any twisting that may have occurred. Tie the ends in loose knots to complete the look

You can purchase an ad free PDF of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy

Shawl

Dragonfruit Shawl

I’d like to present the dragonfruit shawl! This oversized 5-point shawl is the perfect, stylish blanket to keep you warm and fancy. It’s a combination of 3 stitches to give different textures in each section.

You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy

Share your work: #dragonfruitshawl @leroocrochet

Difficulty

Intermediate

@themindieraes

Materials

Yarn: 960 yards of hand dyed, indie worsted yarn or store dk
440 yards – Color A (CA) – Hot Pink in sample
300 yards – Color C (CC) – Gray in Sample

Hook: K/6.5mm hook or size needed to achieve gauge

Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, 3 stitch markers

Gauge: 15 ldc x 10 rows after blocking – Not super important, aim for 16 x 11 rows before blocking 

Sizing: 60″ x 36″

Pattern Key (US Terms)

st – Stitch
sk – skip
ss – slip stitch
yo – yarn over
fo – finish off
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
ldc – linked double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
bpdc – back post double crochet
v-st – V-Stitch

Special Stitches

ldc – insert your hook into the horizontal loop of the previous dc or ldc, yo, pull up loop, and proceed as you would for a dc. For a good tutorial see: https://www.mooglyblog.com/linked-double-crochet/

v-st – (dc, ch 1, dc) in same stitch

Pattern Notes (read before starting):

  • Turning chains do not count as a stitch
  • This pattern is worked with 3 corners, so every row these corners are worked as a ch, st, ch in the st of the corner in the previous row
  • Each row adds 6 stitches
  • You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy

Reading stitch counts

Throughout the pattern you’ll see numbers in italics at the end of a row. The number in brackets is the total number of sc/dc/hdcs you did in that row, including the stitches in the corners. The numbers that follow are referring to the stitch counts of each side before and after the chain spaces. 

This image shows Section 1, Row 5. it has 5 scs per short side, 10 per long side, and 3 corner scs. So the count would look like [33 sc] 5, 10, 10, 5

Pattern Instructions:

Section 1 – CA

Foundation: ch 4, sl st in the 4th ch from the hook to form a loop. Work row 1 in the center of the loop.

Row 1: ch 2, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc

Row 2: ch 2, turn; dc in next st, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc in next 2 sts and ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc in next 2 sts and ch sp,  (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc. 

Row 3: ch 2, turn; dc  in next st, ldc, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc in next 4 sts and ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc in next 4 sts and ch sp,  (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, 2 ldc.

Row 4: ch 2, turn; dc in next st, ldc in next 2 sts, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc in next 6 sts and ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, ldc in next 6 sts and ch sp,  (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next dc, dc in ch sp, 3 ldc

Row 5: change to CB, ch 1, turn; sc in next 4 sts, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in next dc,  sc in ch sp, sc in next 8 sts and ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in next dc, sc in ch sp, sc in next 8 sts, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in next dc, sc in ch sp, sc in next 4 sts [33 sc] 5, 10, 10, 5 

Row 6: change to CA, ch 1, turn; sc in next 5 sts, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in next sc,  sc in ch sp, sc in next 10 sts and ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in next sc, sc in ch sp, sc in next 10 sts, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in next sc, sc in ch sp, sc in next 5 sts [39 sc] 6, 12, 12, 6

Section 2 – CB

Row 1 and 2: change to CB, ch 2, turn; *ldc in each st until you reach the ch sp, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, ldc in remaining sts 

Row 3: ch 2, turn; *dc in each st until you reach the ch sp, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, dc in remaining sts [57 dc] 9, 18, 18, 9

Row 4: ch 2, turn; hdc in the first st, 
*[fpdc, hdc] across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp* 
repeat from * to * one more time, 
[hdc, fpdc] across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp, 
[hdc, fpdc] until 1 stitch remains, hdc

Row 5: ch 2, turn; hdc in the first st, 
*[bpdc, hdc] across until you reach the last st, bpdc, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp* 
repeat from * to * one more time, 
bpdc, [hdc, bpdc] across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st,, hdc in ch sp, [hdc, bpdc] until 1 stitch remains, hdc

Row 6: change to CC, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [75 sc] 12, 24, 24, 12

Row 7: change to CB, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [81 sc] 13, 26, 26, 13

Section 3 – CC

Row 1: change to CC, ch 2, turn; 
dc, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until 1 st remain before ch sp, sk 1,  dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st, 
dc in ch sp,  sk 1, *v-st in next st, sk 2,* repeat from * to * until ch sp, sk ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
sk ch sp, * v-st in next st, sk 2,* repeat from * to * until 1 st remains before ch sp, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, * v-st in next st, sk 2,* repeat from * to * until 2 sts remain, sk 1, dc

Row 2: ch 2, turn;
dc, v-st in the ch space of each v-st across, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, move marker, ch 1) in corner st, 
dc in ch sp, dc, v-st in the ch space of each v-st, dc, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, move marker, ch 1) in corner st, 
dc in ch sp, v-st in next st, v-st in the ch space of each v-st, dc, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, move marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch space of each v-st, dc in last st

row 3: change to CA, removing markers as you go, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [99 sc] 16, 32, 32, 16

row 4: change to CC, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [105 sc] 17, 34, 34, 17

Section 4- CA

row 1 – 5: change to CA, ch 2, turn; dc, *ldc in each st until you reach the ch sp, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, ldc in remaining sts

Row 6: change to CB, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [141 sc] 23, 46, 46, 23

Row 7: change to CA, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [147 sc] 24, 48, 48, 24

Section 5 – CB

Row 1 and 2: change to CB, ch 2, turn; *ldc in each st until you reach the ch sp, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, ldc in remaining sts

Row 3: ch 2, turn; *dc in each st until you reach the ch sp, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, dc in remaining sts [165 dc] 27, 54, 54, 27

Row 4: ch 2, turn; hdc in the first st, *[fpdc, hdc] across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp* 
repeat from * to * one more time, 
[hdc, fpdc] across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp, [hdc, fpdc] for the remainder of the row

Row 5: ch 2, turn; hdc in the first st, *[bpdc, hdc] across until you reach the last st, bpdc, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp* 
repeat from * to * one more time, 
bpdc, [hdc, bpdc] across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp, [hdc, bpdc] for the remainder of the row

Row 6: change to CC, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [183 sc] 30, 60, 60, 30

Row 7: change to CB, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [189 sc] 31, 62, 62, 31

Section 6 – CC

Row 1: change to CC, ch 2, turn;
dc, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until 1 st remains before ch
sp, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until you reach the last st before the ch sp, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch-sp, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until one st remains before ch sp, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, * v-st in next st, sk 2,* repeat from * to * until 2 sts remain, sk 1, dc

Row 2: ch 2, turn;
dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st

Row 3:, ch 2, turn;
dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st

Row 4: ch 2, turn;
dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1,dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, v-st in first dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, (ch 1 ,dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st

Row 5: change to CA, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [219 sc] 36, 72, 72, 36

Row 6: change to CC, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [225 sc] 37, 74, 74, 37

Section 7 – CA

row 1 – 10: change to CA, ch 2, turn; dc *ldc in each st until you reach the ch sp, ldc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, ldc in remaining sts

Row 11: change to CB, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [291 sc] 48, 96, 96, 48

Row 12: change to CA, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [297 sc] 49, 98, 98, 49

Section 8 – CB

Row 1: change to CB, ch 2, turn; *dc in each st until you reach the ch sp, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, ch 1) in corner st, dc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, dc in remaining sts [303 dc] 50, 100, 100, 50

Row 2: ch 2, turn; hdc in the first st, *[fpdc, hdc] across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch ) in corner st1, hdc in ch sp* 
repeat from * to * one more time, 
[hdc, fpdc] across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp, [hdc, fpdc] for the remainder of the row

Row 3: ch 2, turn; hdc in the first st, *[bpdc, hdc] across until you reach the last st, bpdc, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp* 
repeat from * to * one more time, 
bpdc, [hdc, bpdc] across until you reach the the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in corner st, hdc in ch sp, [hdc, bpdc] for the remainder of the row

Row 4: change to CC, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [321 sc] 53, 106, 106, 53

Row 5: change to CB, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [327 sc] 54, 108, 108, 54

Section 9 – CC

Row 1: change to CC, ch 2, turn; 
dc, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until 3 st remains before ch sp, sk 1, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until 1 st remains before the ch sp, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* repeat from * to * until 1 st remains before the ch sp, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dk in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, * v-st in next st, sk 2,* repeat from * to * until 2 sts remain, sk 1, dc

Row 2: ch 2, turn;
dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st

Row 3: ch 2, turn;
dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st

Row 4: ch 2, turn;
dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1,  dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1,  dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st

Row 5: ch 2, turn;
dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st

Row 6: ch 2, turn;
dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st

Row 7: ch 2, turn;
dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1,  dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st in next st, sk 1,  dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st

Row 8: ch 2, turn;
dc, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, sk 1, v-st, sk 1, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, dc in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in next st, dc in ch sp, (ch 1, dc, place marker, ch 1) in corner st,
dc in ch sp, sk 1, v-st in next st, v-st in the ch-sp of each v-st, dc in last st

Row 9: change to CA, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [381 sc] 63, 126, 126, 63

Row 10: change to CC, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [387 sc] 64, 128, 128, 64

Edge:

Row 1: change to CA, ch 2, sk 1, *hdc, hdc in skipped st, sk 1*, repeat from * to * until you reach the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in the corner st, 
hdc in ch sp, sk 1, *hdc, hdc in skipped st, sk 1*, repeat from * to * until you reach the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in the corner st, 
hdc in ch sp, sk 1, *hdc, hdc in skipped st, sk 1*, repeat from * to * until you reach the ch sp, hdc in ch sp, (ch 1, hdc, ch 1) in the corner st, 
hdc in ch sp, sk 1, *hdc, hdc in skipped st, sk 1*, repeat from * to * until one st remains, hdc. 

Row 2: change to CB, ch 1, turn; *sc in each st until you reach the ch sp, sc in ch sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 1) in corner st, sc in ch sp* repeat from * to * two more times, sc in remaining sts [399 sc] 66, 132, 132, 66

You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy

Huge thank you to my testers:
@turquoisepalm
Ruthie at Dragonfly Creations
Kristen @themindieraes

Cardigan, Pattern

Coffeeshop Cardigan

Hi Everyone! I’d like to present, the Coffeeshop Cardigan! This cardigan is so cozy. It’s beautifully oversized, with big sleeves and a cinched cuff (I’m pointing that out specifically because I love a baggy sleeve with a nice fitted cuff). ALSO it’s reversible. See, the way I’m wearing it, the color stripes are more subtle and the white is center stage. However, if I turn it inside out the colors really pop!

You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy

Share your work: #coffeeshopcardi @leroocrochet

Materials

Yarn: Vanilla Bean, Blueberry Muffin, Pumpkin Spice and Spilled Coffee on DK from Handmade Home Fibers

However any dk weight or worsted weight yarn will work. Worsted will produce a heavier, warmer cardigan and dk a lighter, springier one

Yardage is as follows:


xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x
total yardage 1500 1600 1700 1850 2000 2150 2300 2450 2600 2700
main color 1019 1082 1145 1239 1334 1428 1523 1617 1712 1805

Hook: 6.5mm hook or size needed to achieve gauge and a hook 1 or 2 sizes smaller

Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors

Gauge: 16 ehdc x 10 rows = 4” x 4”

Sizing: This is designed with plenty of room to fit the following bust sizes

xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x
30” 34” 38” 42” 46” 50” 54” 58” 62” 66”

If you are between sizes, size down for a less oversized fit. 

Pattern Key (US Terms)

st – Stitch
sk – skip
ss – slip stitch
yo – yarn over
fo – finish off
ch – chain
fsc – Foundation Single Crochet
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
ehdc – extended half double crochet
dec – decrease

Special Stitches

ehdc – Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through one loop, yo pull through all loops
dec – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up loop, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through all loops

Pattern Notes (read before starting):

  • Turning chains do not count as a stitch
  • For help with the Foundation Single Crochet there’s a great tutorial with pictures and video here: https://persialou.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc-photo/
  • While you CAN carry your yarn, this cardigan is reversible if striped, so if you’d like to wear it both ways, cut your yarn after each color change and weave. 
  • You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy

Pattern Instructions:

the sizes are referenced as follows: xs (sm, md, lg, xl, 2x, 3x, 4x, 5x, 6x)

In main color:

Foundation: 148 (164, 180, 196, 212, 228, 244, 260, 276, 292) fsc

Row 1: ch 2, turn; ehdc in each st 

At this point your project should measure 37 (41, 45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65, 69, 73) inches – if it’s too long adjust your hook size 

Change to a secondary color:

Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across

Alternating between the main color and a secondary color:

*Repeat row 2 35 more times for a total of 37 rows – do not finish off 

*Note: For a longer cardigan, add more rows here. For a shorter cardigan, remove some rows

Panel 1:

Using main color

Row 1: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in the next  32 (36, 40, 44, 48,  52, 56, 60, 64, 68) sts, leaving remaining stitches empty. Place a stitch marker in next unworked st

Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across

Repeat row 2 15 (16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21) more times for a total of 17 (18, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23) rows, finish off leaving a long tail

Back Panel:

Using main color, attach your yarn in the same stitch as your stitch marker

Row 1: ch 2, working in third loop, ehdc in the next 84 (92, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132, 140, 148, 156) sts, leaving remaining stitches empty. Place a stitch marker in next unworked st

Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across

Repeat row 2 15 (16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21) more times for a total of 17 (18, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23) rows, finish off

Panel 2: 

Using main color, attach your yarn in the same stitch as your stitch marker

Row 1: ch 2; working in third loop, ehdc in the next 32 (36, 40, 44, 48,  52, 56, 60, 64, 68) sts 

Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across

Repeat row 2 15 (16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21) more times for a total of 17 (18, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23) rows. Finish off leaving a long tale

Seam the Shoulders 

Lay your work flat and fold your side panels over. Seam along the top to close the top of the shoulders with a whip stitch. 

Sleeves – work on both sides:

With wrong side facing (the side where the main color is less visible in the stripes) – Attach your main color yarn to the post of the first row of panel 1. 

Row 1: ch 2, hdc in same post. Work around the stitch posts, hdc in next row, hdc in between next row [see images below for an illustration, you’ll be working 3 hdcs per 2 rows], *hdc in next two rows, hdc in between next row* repeat from * to * until you reach the shoulder seam

hdc into the shoulder seam. Repeat from * to * to the last row. hdc in the two ehdcs of the last row of the body: Sl St into the ch 2 to join

*note: for a larger arm hole, work 2 hdcs per row. 

Change to secondary color

Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across until 2 sts remain, dec, sl st into the ch 2 to join

Row 3-7: repeat row 2, alternating between main color and secondary color

Row 8: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across. Sl St into the ch 2 to join

Alternating between main and secondary color, repeat row 8 until you have 32 rows total – or until the sleeve is about 1 inch too short for your arm. 

Row 33: ch 2, turn; working in all loops, *hdc, dec* repeat from * to * around, Sl St into the ch 2 to join

Row 34: ch 2, turn; *hdc, dec* repeat form * to * around.  Sl St into the ch 2 to join Finish off

Sleeve Ribbing

Using a smaller hook, and a secondary color,  attach your yarn to the cuff of your sleeve – wrong side still facing. 

Row 1: ch 10, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [8 hdc], sl st in 2nd st of your cuff, ch 1, sl st in next st of the cuff, turn.

Row 2: hdc in third loop across [8 hdc]

Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc in third loop of st across, sl st in next st of your cuff, ch 1, sl st in

next st, turn

Repeat row 2 and 3 around. Slip Stitch the back loop of both sides together to seam the cuff.  Finish off

Finding the cuff too big? Either lower your hook size, or skip a cuff st every 4 rows – so you cover 5 cuff sts every 4 rib rows. 

Edging

Attach main color to one of the bottom, inside corners of the body.

Row 1: ch 2, hdc evenly up around the neck and back down the body of the cardigan  following the same method as row 1 of the sleeves (3 hdc for every 2 rows) – for the neck line, do only 1 hdc in each st. Do not work along the bottom of the cardigan yet

Row 2-4: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st

Bottom Ribbing – Switch to a smaller hook (but don’t finish off)

Row 1: Ch 7, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [5 hdc], sl st into the first last row of edging, ch 1, sl st into the next row, turn

Row 2: hdc in third loop across

Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [5 hdc], sl st into the first last row of edging, ch 1, sl st into the next row, turn

Row 4: hdc in third loop across

Row 5: ch 1, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [5 hdc], sl st into the next st of the fsc, ch 1, st st into the next st, turn

Repeat row 4 and 5 across. Finish Off.

If you’re finding the ribbing wavy, either lower your hook size, or skip a fsc st ever 4 rows – so you cover 5 fsc sts every 4 rib rows. 

weave in your ends and block if needed

You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy

Pattern, Shirt

Daylily Tank

The daylily tank came to life from the yarn. The beautiful lace top is flowery and adds such interest to this simple tank without adding difficulty. It is also super easy to adjust the length so you can make it your own!

Share your work: #daylilytank @leroocrochet

You can purchase an ad-free version of this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry

Materials

Yarn: For the single color top I used Springfetti from LeRoo Cotton

For color block top I used Zeppelin and Lilac from Threadhead Knits

However any dk weight yarn will work. Some good alternatives are sugarwheel cotton from Hobby Lobby, Cotton Bamboo from Lion Brand, Cotton Jeans from Lion Brand, Joy DK from Michaels.

Yardage is as follows:


xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x
yardage 544 599 654 740 826 913 998 1084 1170 1260

Hook: 5mm hook or size needed to achieve gauge

Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Gauge: 16 dc x 8 rows = 4” x 4”:

Sizing: 

xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x
30” 34” 38” 42” 46” 50” 54” 58” 62” 66”

Pattern Key (US Terms)

st – Stitch
sk – skip
ss – slip stitch
yo – yarn over
fo – finish off
ch – chain
fsc – Foundation Single Crochet
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet two together

Pattern Notes (read before starting):

  • Turning chains count as a stitch
  • This pattern is written starting around the bust. The lace top is worked up on the fsc, then the body is worked in the round by flipping the project crocheting into the bottom of the fsc
  • For help with the Foundation Single Crochet there’s a great tutorial with pictures and video here: https://persialou.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc-photo/
  • It is important to use a fsc instead of a chain for the stretch the fsc offers
  • You can purchase an ad-free version of this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry

Pattern Instructions:

Lace Front:

Foundation: 120 (134, 148, 176, 190, 204, 218, 232, 246, 260) fsc, join in a loop with a ss making sure not to twist your row

row 1: ch 3, (counts as dc) dc in next 2 sts, *sk 2 (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st, sk 2, dc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * 7 (8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17) more times, dc in next st [8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 (2dc, ch 1, 2dc)] – leave remaining sts unworked

row 2: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in between 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc*, repeat from * to * until 1 st remains. dc

repeat row 2,  7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16) more times, for 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18) rows total or until it measures 4 (4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) inches

Strap 1:

row 1: ch 3, turn, 2dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times, 2 dc in next chain space

row 2: ch 3, turn,  sk 2, 2 dc in between two dcs, * (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch sp, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times, dc in next st

row 3: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more time, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, dc in turning chain

row  4:  ch 3, turn, 2 dc in next chain space, 2 dc between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times, dc in next st

row 5: ch 3, turn; dc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next st, sc in next st, sc in ch space, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times, dc in next 2 sts, fo

Strap 2:

reattach yarn in the 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) ch space from the left

row 1: ch 3,  dc in ch space, 2dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times,  dc in last st

row 2: ch 3, turn; 2dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times, dc in turning ch

row 3: ch 3, turn;  *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc*  repeat from * to * 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times, dc in last  st

row 4: ch 3, turn, 2dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times,  2 dc in next ch sp, dc in turning space

row 5: ch 3, turn, dc in next 3 sts, *hdc, sc in next 3 sts, hdc, dc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * across, dc in last st fo

Lace Back:

turn your work so the front panel is on the bottom, making sure you haven’t twisted your foundation stitch, attach your yarn to the first unworked st 

row 1: ch 3, (counts as dc) dc in next 2 sts, *sk 2 (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st, sk 2, dc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * 7 (8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17) more times, dc in next st 

row 2: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in between 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc*, repeat from * to * until 1 st remains. dc

repeat row 2,  9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18) more times, for 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) rows total or until it measures 5 (5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5) inches

Strap 1:

row 1: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more time, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, dc in between next 2 dc

row  2:  ch 3, turn, 2 dc in next chain space, 2dc between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times, dc in turning ch

row 3: ch 3, turn; dc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next st, sc in next st, sc in ch space, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times, dc in last 2 sts, fo leaving a long tail

Strap 2:

attach yarn between the 2 dc after the 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) double (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc)

row 1: ch 3,  *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc*  repeat from * to * 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times, dc in last  st

row 2: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in between next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next chain space, 2 dc in between next 2 dc* repeat from * to * 0 (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times,  2 dc in next ch sp, dc in turning space

row 3: ch 3, turn, dc in next 3 sts, *hdc, sc in next 3 sts, hdc, dc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to * across, dc in last st fo

 leaving a long tail

Whip Stitch the top of the arms together

@va1erie

Body:

Flip your project so the fsc is at the top. Attach your yarn under the armpit on the unworked side of the fsc.

Want a boxier look? Skip the waist shaping by following row 20 until you reach your desired length. 

For the first 8 rows, you will be decreasing 2 stitches each row under the armpit, if you’d prefer not to count, dc2tog in the first 2 stitches and in the armpit

row 1: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 58 (65, 71, 86, 93, 100, 107, 114,  121, 128), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 2: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 57 (64, 70, 85, 92, 99, 106, 113,  120, 127), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 3: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 56 (63, 69, 84, 91, 98, 105, 112,  119, 126), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 4: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 55 (62, 68, 83, 90, 97, 104, 111,  118, 125), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 5: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 54 (61, 67, 82, 89, 96, 103, 110,  117, 124), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 6: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 53 (60, 66, 81, 88, 95, 102, 109,  116, 123), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 7: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 52 (59, 65, 80, 87, 94, 101, 108,  115, 122), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 8: ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc 51 (58, 64, 79, 86, 93, 100, 107,  114, 121), dc2tog, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

Row 9 – 11: ch 3, turn; dc in each st across, ss into turning chain to join

For the next 8 rows, you will be increasing 2 stitches each row under the armpit, if you’d prefer not to count, dc twice in first st, then dc twice in one st under the other armpit

row 12: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 52 (59, 65, 80, 87, 94, 101, 108,  115, 122), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 13: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 53 (60, 66, 81, 88, 95, 102, 109,  116, 123), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 14: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 54 (61, 67, 82, 89, 96, 103, 110,  117, 124), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 15: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 55 (62, 68, 83, 90, 97, 104, 111,  118, 125), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 16: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 56 (63, 69, 84, 91, 98, 105, 112,  119, 126), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 17: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 57 (64, 70, 85, 92, 99, 106, 113,  120, 127), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 18: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 58 (65, 71, 86, 93, 100, 105, 114,  121, 128), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 19: ch 3, turn; 2 dc in next st, dc 59 (66, 72, 87, 94, 101, 108, 115,  122, 129), 2 dc in next st, dc in remaining st, ss into the turning ch to join

row 20 – 30: ch 3, turn; dc in each st around, ss into the turning chain to join

watch your gauge during these rows, most people have a tendency to loosen their stitches as they go

you can shorten your top by doing fewer rows, and add length by doing more – this will affect yardage

You can purchase an ad-free version of this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry

@themindieraes

Testers:

A huge thank you to my testers

Asia at yarnfixation.com
Jenna at ravelry.com/designers/jst
Kate @Katedenyse
Kari at Crocheted Creations By Kari
Kathy Hungerford Paquette
Kristen @themindieraes
Liza from Liz_knots
shannonrogers760
Tiffany of @themodestbungalow
Valerie www.instagram.com/va1erie

Cardigan, Pattern

Celeste Fade Cardigan

Celeste Fade Cardigan modeled

*this post contains affiliated links

The celeste cardigan came to life when I opened a package of yarn and saw the beautiful fade potential. I love the look of fades and these colors were just screaming for the treatment. 

This pattern is done almost entirely with crossed half double crochets and back loop only half double crochets, making it carefree to work on, with no complicated pattern to remember. But the end result is a gorgeous off the rack look. Plus the only seaming is for the pocket!

Share your work with #CelesteCardigan and @leroocrochet

Purchase an ad-free version of this pattern – which includes extra pictures and a color change chart on etsy or ravelry

Materials

Yarn: I used Cosy Posy’s cloud base in the following colors:
Color A: Maple
Color B: Lakehouse
Color C: Wood Burning Outside
Color D: Moonstone

However any fingering weight yarn will work.
Testers used: WoolLike or Cambria by Loops and Threads, Cascade Heritage,  Lion Brand Dotted Line, It’s a Wrap by Red Heart and Lion’s Brand Summer Nights

Yardage is as follows:


xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x
a,b,c 200 275 350 425 500 575 650 725 800 875
d 400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300
pockets 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100
total 1100 1425 1750 2075 2400 2725 3050 3375 3700 4025

a, b, and c refers to the yardage you need of each color

Pockets can be made in any color, they’re on the inside so you can use a mix as well

Hook: 7/4.5mm hook or size needed to achieve gauge, and a size smaller for the ribbing, in my case I used a F/3.75mm 

Notions: 4 stitch markers, Yarn needle for weaving in ends, Scissors 

Gauge: 21st x 15 rows = 4”x4”

chain 23, in 4th ch from hook hdc, hdc backwards in 3rd chain, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat across until 1 stitch remains, hdc
ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped stitch* repeat across until one stitch remains, hdc
repeat until you have 15 rows – swatch should be 4”x4”

Sizing: This cardigan measures 29” long and has a 4 inch ease and is designed to fit the following bust sizes. 

xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x
30” 34” 38” 42” 46” 50” 54” 58” 62” 66”

Pattern Key (US Terms)

st – Stitch
sl st – slip stitch
yo – yarn over
fo – finish off
ch – chain
fsc – Foundation Single Crochet
hdc- half double crochet
blo – back loop only 

Pattern Notes (read before starting):

  • Purchase an ad-free version of this pattern – which includes extra pictures and a color change chart on etsy or ravelry
  • Chains at beginning of each row do NOT count as a stitch
  • This pattern is written working up the back, then down the front. I’ll be referring to the individual parts as “panels” but back panel and front panel 1 are worked without finishing off, and panel 2 is worked directly from the back panel. As a whole, this cardigan is worked as one piece and requires minimal seaming to add pockets 
  • For color fade see the last page for a chart of color changes
  • For help with the Foundation Single Crochet there’s a great tutorial with pictures and video here: https://persialou.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc-photo/

Pattern Instructions:

Back Panel:

Foundation: 95 (105, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155, 165, 175, 185) fsc 

Row 1: ch 2, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st. [47 (52, 57, 62, 67, 72, 77, 82, 87, 92) crossed hdcs]

Row 2: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st. [47 (52, 57, 62, 67, 72, 77, 82, 87, 92) crossed hdcs] 

Row 3 – 105: Repeat row 2. Do not finish off

Front Panel 1:

Row 106:  ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs] – leave the remainder of the stitches unworked

Row 107 – 129 (131, 133, 135, 137, 139, 141, 143, 145, 147): Repeat row 106

*Row 130 (132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 142, 144, 146, 148): sl st into the post of last st on row 80 (78, 76, 74, 72, 70, 68, 66, 64, 62) of the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in last stitch

Row 177: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8,  9, 10, 12) more times, ch 32, sk 32 sts (16 crossed hdcs), *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to *  0 (1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7,  9,  10, 11) more times, hdc in last stitch [2 (5, 7, 10, 12, 15, 17, 20, 22, 25) crossed hdcs]

Row 178: sl st into the post of last st on the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to *  0 (1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7,  9,  10, 11) more times, *sk 1 ch, hdc in next ch, hdc in skipped ch* repeat from * to * 15 more times, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8,  9, 10, 12) more times hdc in last stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs]

Row 179: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs]

Row 180: sl st into the post of last st on the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in last stitch

Front Panel 2:

Repeat row 179 and 180 until you have 210 rows in total. Finish off

Return to the top of the back panel. Start at the unworked corner and count 36 (42, 46, 52, 56, 62, 66, 72, 76, 82) sts back. Attach your yarn. 

Row 106:  ch 2; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs]

Row 107: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs]

Row 107 – 129 (131, 133, 135, 137, 139, 141, 143, 145, 147): Repeat row 107

*Row 130 (132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 142, 144, 146, 148): ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch, sl st into the post of last st on row 80 (78, 76, 74, 72, 70, 68, 66, 64, 62) of the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row, turn

Row 177: *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7,  9,  10, 11) more times, ch 32, sk 32 sts (16 crossed hdcs), *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8,  9, 10, 12) more times, hdc in last stitch [2 (5, 7, 10, 12, 15, 17, 20, 22, 25) crossed hdcs]

Row 178:  sl st into the post of last st on the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to *  0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8,  9, 10, 12) more times, *sk 1 ch, hdc in next ch, hdc in skipped ch* repeat from * to * 15 more times, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to *  0 (1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7,  9,  10, 11) more times hdc in last stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs]

Row 179: *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs]

Row 180: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch, sl st into the post of last st on back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row, turn

Repeat row 179 and 180 until you have 210 rows in total do not finish off

Ribbing – bottom of cardigan 

Using your smaller hook

Row 1: ch 10, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [8 hdc],  sl st in 2nd st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn.

Row 2: hdc blo across [8 hdc blo]

Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc blo in each st across,  sl st in next st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 across the bottom of your cardigan, finishing on row 2. Do not finish off

Ribbing – body of cardigan:

Using your smaller hook

Row 1: ch 14, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [12 hdc], sl st in 2nd st of your bottom ribbing, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn.

Row 2: hdc blo across [12 hdc blo]

Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc blo in each st across,  sl st in next st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 up your front panel, around the top of the back panel, and down the second front panel until you reach the last row of your bottom ribbing. FO

Ribbing – Arms (do for both arm holes):

Using your smaller hook

attach yarn to the base of the arm hole. 

Row 1: ch 10, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [8 hdc], sl st in 2nd st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn.

Row 2: hdc blo across [8 hdc blo]

Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc blo in each st across,  sl st in next st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 across the arm hole, finishing on row 2, FO leaving a long tail. Seam together the two ends of the arm ribbing. FO

Pockets (do 2):

Switch back to standard hook

With wrong side facing, attach your yarn to the post of the hdc before the 32 ch space, leaving a long tale

Work along the skipped crossed half double crochets: 

Row 1: ch 2, working in top loop only, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across [16 crossed hdcs], hdc in post of the hdc after the ch 32 gap. 

Row 2: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across until one st remains, hdc in last st

Row 3 – 30: repeat row 2

Finish off. Using the starting tail and a yarn needle, sew the pocket to the back of the sweater, sewing the bottom 29 rows below the ch 32 pocket hole and up along both sides. 

Finish up your cardigan by weaving in ends – blocking if necessary. 

Big thank you to my testers:

Caryn @crochetingwithcaryn
Erin @anxiouslycrafted
Gracita @gracitablom
Jenn @muster.pattern
Kelly james
Kristen @themindieraes
Lindsay @thaddythechi_andlinny
@michellej4001
@Nicolemwardin
Nikki at smileNstitches
Robyn @read.crochet.repeat
Shannon

Purchase an ad-free version of this pattern – which includes extra pictures and a color change chart on etsy or ravelry

Pattern, Shirt

Ocean Dive Tee

This is a top of options. There’s options for a deep v, a less deep v, sleeves or no sleeves and a longer or shorter top. Here you’ll find the pattern for the sleeveless, deep v top, however the full pattern is available for purchase on Ravelry and Etsy

Materials

Yarn: Any DK yarn, I recommend a cotton,

I used yarn bee sugarwheel cotton in Harbor Wish.

Other options split-include: Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend or Coboo, Premier Bamboo Fair.

Acrylic yarn like Joy DK will also work

Hook: I/5.5mm hook or size needed to achieve gauge

Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Sizing

SizeBustYardage
xs30530
sm34625
md38700
lg42790
xl46880
2xl50980
3xl541075
4xl581175
5xl621275

Gauge: 10 clusters x 8 rows = 4”x4”

Pattern Key (US terms)

st – Stitch

sl st – slip stitch

yo – yarn over

fo – finish off

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

cl – cluster

cl dec – cluster decrease

dc2tog – double crochet 2 together

Special Stitches

Cluster (cl)

yo, insert hook in stitch, yo pull up loop, yo pull through 2 loops

yo, insert hook in same stitch, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops

yo, pull through all loops

Cluster Decrease (cl-dec)

yo, insert hook in stitch, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops

yo, insert hook in next stitch, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops

yo, insert hook in same stitch, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops

yo, pull through all loops

Split increase (split-inc):

A split-increase is a cluster split across 2 stitches (the cluster before and after do not count as part of this stitch, and are part of the cluster count before and after the increase)

Yo, insert hook in same st as last cluster, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2, yo insert hook in next st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2, yo, pull through all.

When you move on to the next cluster in the pattern, work in the same stitch.

Double Crochet 2 Together (dc2tog):

These are done at the beginning and ends of rows to create the back v.

Yo, insert hook in next stitch, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2, yo, insert hook in next stitch, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2, yo, pull through both.

Continue in next stitch

Pattern Notes:

Ch 2 does not count as a stitch

Sizes are referenced as xs (sm, md, lg, xl, 2x, 3x, 4x, 5x, 6x)

This pattern splits the hem for all lengths because the chain is not stretchy at all. The split hem allows it to lay better.

Options are available in the ad free PDF which can be purchased on Etsy or Ravelry

As with all garments, gauge is super important. Please swatch and test your gauge to make sure you’re making the right size.

Please refer to the special stitch guide as clusters, increases and decreases may be different than you are used to

Pattern Instructions

Back Hem

Foundation: loosely ch 40 (45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85)

Row 1: ch 2 more regularly, cl in the 3rd ch from your hook, cl in each ch

For a shorter shirt: finish off

For longer shirt: Row 2 – 9: ch 2, turn; cluster in each st across, finish off

Front Hem:

Foundation: loosely ch 40 (45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85)

Row 1: ch 2 more regularly, cl in the 3rd ch from your hook, cl in each ch

For longer shirt: Row 2 -9: ch 2, turn; cluster in each st across

Both Lengths:

Row 2 | 10 :  ch 2, turn; cl in each st across. Take the back hem and continue clustering in each stitch across. Sl st the top together to make a circle. Finish off

Row 3 | 11: Count back 21 (23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41, 43) sts. Reattach your yarn.  ch 2, turn; in same st as sl st (it will feel like you’re stitching backwards) cl, cl in each st across, sl st in first cl to join (80, [90, 100, 110,  120, 130, 140, 150, 160, 170 cls])

NOTE: Your first cluster will always be inn the same stitch as the slip stitch

Row 4 – 8 | 12 – 16: ch 2, turn; in same st as sl st, cl, cl in each st across, sl st in first cl to join (80, [90, 100, 110,  120, 130, 140, 150, 160, 170] cls)

Row 9 | 17: ch 2, turn; cl in same st as sl st, cl 19 (21, 24, 26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41) more times, cl-dec, cl in next 36 (42, 46, 52, 56, 62, 66, 72, 76, 82)  sts, cl-dec, cl in next 20 (22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40, 42) sts, sl st in first cl to join

Row 10 | 18: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across (78 [88, 98, 108, 118, 128, 138, 148, 158, 168] cls)

Row 11 | 19: ch 2, turn; cl in same st as sl st, cl 19 (21, 24, 26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41) more times, cl-dec, cl in next 34 (40, 44, 50, 54, 60, 64, 70, 74, 80)  sts, cl-dec, cl in next 20 (22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40, 42) sts, sl st in first cl to join

Row 12 | 20: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across (76 [86, 96, 106, 116, 126, 136, 146, 156, 166] cls)

Row 13 | 21: ch 2, turn; cl in same st as sl st, cl 19 (21, 24, 26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41) more times, cl-dec, cl in next 32 (38, 42, 48, 52, 58, 62, 68, 72, 78)  sts, cl-dec, cl in next 20 (22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40, 42) sts, sl st in first cl to join

Row 14 | 22: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across (74 [84, 94, 104, 114, 124, 134, 144, 154, 164] cls)

Row 15 | 23:  ch 2, turn; cl in same st as sl st, cl 19 (21, 24, 26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41) more times, cl-dec, cl in next 30 (36, 40, 46, 50, 56, 60, 66, 70, 76)  sts, cl-dec, cl in next 20 (22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40, 42) sts

Row 16 & 17 | 24 & 25: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across (72 [82, 92, 102, 112, 122, 132, 142, 152, 162] cls)

Row 18 | 26: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until final 2 sts, dc2tog

Row 19 | 27: ch 2, turn; dc in 1st st, cl in next 18 (20, 23, 25, 28, 30, 33, 35, 38, 40) more times, split-inc, cl in next 32 (38, 42, 48, 52, 58, 62, 68, 72, 78)  sts, split-inc, cl in next 18 (20, 23, 25, 28, 30, 33, 35, 38, 40) sts, dc in last st

Row 20 | 28: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until final 2 sts, dc2tog

Row 21 | 29: ch 2, turn; dc in 1 st, cl in next 17 (19, 22, 24, 27, 29, 32, 34, 37, 39) more times, split-inc, cl in next 34 (40, 44, 50, 54, 60, 64, 70, 74, 80) sts, split-inc, cl in next 17 (19, 22, 24, 27, 29, 32, 34, 37, 39) sts, dc in last st

Row 22 | 30: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until final 2 sts, dc2tog

Row 23 | 31: ch 2, turn; dc in 1st st, cl in next 16 (18, 21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38) sts, split-inc, cl in next 36 (42, 46, 52, 56, 62, 66, 72, 76, 82) sts, split-inc, cl in next 16 (18, 21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38) sts, dc in last st

Row 24 | 32: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until final 2 sts, dc2tog

Row 25 | 33: ch 2, turn; dc in 1st st, cl in next 15 (17, 20, 21, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37) sts, split-inc, cl in next 38 (44, 48, 54, 58, 64, 68, 74, 78, 84) sts, split-inc, cl in next 15 (17, 20, 21, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37) sts, dc in last st

Row 26 | 34 : ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until final 2 sts, dc2tog

Row 27 | 35 : ch 2, turn; dc in first st, cl in each st across until last st, dc in last st

Row 28 | 36 : ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until final 2 sts, dc2tog

BACK, SIDE A

Back side A refers to the completed portion above. It is completed with the yarn still attached to your project.

Row 29 | 37: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in next 13 (16, 18, 21, 23, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35) sts, dc. Count 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6) stitches over and mark the stitch with a stitch marker.

Row 30 | 38: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st until 1 st remains, dc

Row 31 | 39: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

XS:

Row 32 | 40: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st across

Row 33 | 41: ch 2, turn;  cl in each st until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

Row 34 – 40 | 42 – 48: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

SM-6x:

Row 32 | 40: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st until 1 st remains, dc

Row 33 | 41: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

Repeat rows 32 | 40 and 33 | 41: 0, (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times.

SM:

Row 34 – 41 | 42 – 49: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

MD:

Row 34 | 42: ch 2, turn; cl in each st until 1 st remains, dc

Row 35 | 43: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across

Row 36 – 42 | 44 – 50: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

LG:

Row 36 – 43 | 44 – 51: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

XL:

Rows 38 – 44 | 46 – 52: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

2x-6x:

Row 34 | 42: ch 2, turn; cl in each st until 1 st remains, dc

Row 35 | 43: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across

repeat rows 34 | 42 and 35 | 43 x (x, x, x, x, 2, 1, 2, 1, 2) times

ch 2, turn; cl in each st across for x (x, x, x, x, 2, 3, 2, 2, 1) rows. Finish off.

BACK, SIDE B

refers to the uncompleted portion of the picture on page 11. Yarn is attached where the stitch marker is in the picture.

From the split, count over 16 (19, 21, 24, 26, 28, 30, 33, 35, 38). Attach yarn. Place a stitch marker 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6) further from the split.

Row 29 | 37: ch 2, dc2tog in same stitch you attached your yarn. cl in each st until 1 st remains, dc

Row 30 | 38: ch 2, turn;  dc, cl in each st until 2 sts remains, dc2tog

Row 31 | 39: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

XS:

Row 32 | 40: ch 2, turn;  cl in each st across until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

XS Row 33 | 41: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog , cl in each st across

XS: Row 34 – 40 | 42 – 48: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

SM-6x:

Row 32 | 40: ch 2, turn;  dc, cl in each st until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

Row 33 | 41: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

Repeat rows 32 | 40 and 33 | 41: 0, (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times.

SM:

Row 34 – 41 | 42 – 49: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

MD:

Row 34 | 42: ch 2, turn; dc, cl in each st across

Row 35 | 43: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across until 2 stitch remain, dc2tog

Row 36 – 42 | 44 – 50: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

LG:

Row 36 – 43 | 44 – 51: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

XL:

Rows 38 – 44 | 46 – 52: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

2x-6x:

Row 34 | 42: ch 2, turn; dc, cl in each st across

Row 35 | 43: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across until 2 stitches remain, dc2tog

repeat rows 34 | 42 and 35 | 43 x (x, x, x, x, 2, 1, 2, 1, 2) times

ch 2, turn; cl in each st across for x (x, x, x, x, 2, 3, 2, 2, 1) rows. Finish off.

Front Panel

with right side facing, attach your yarn at the marked stitch on the right.

Row 29 } 37: ch2, dc2tog, cl in each st until 1 stitch remains before the stitch marker. dc2tog

Row 30: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until 2 stitches remain, dc2tog

repeat row 30 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) more times

Repeat the following row 8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13) times:

ch 2, turn; cluster in each st across;

Make the front straps:

ch 2, turn; cl in next 10 (11, 10, 13, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18) sts – repeat for 3 more rows

ch 1, turn, sl st together this strap with the back strap.

Finish off

Lay top out as you see in the picture on the previous page. Count 10 (11, 10, 13, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18) sts to the right of the left corner of the front panel.

ch 2, cl in each st.

ch 2, turn; cluster in each st across; Repeat 2 more times.

ch 1, turn, sl st together this strap with the back strap.

finish off

Optional Scalloped Edging:

Slip Stitch to attach your yarn to the V, just below the sleeve seam. *Sk 1 row, 5 dc in next row, sk 1 row, sc in next row* repeat from * to * down and back up the V. slip stitch instead of sc on your last st. Finish off.

To Create A Laced Back:

Slip Stitch to attach your yarn to the V, just below the sleeve seam. *Sk 1 row, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next row, sk 1 row, sc in next row* repeat from * to * down and back up the V. slip stitch instead of sc on your last st. Finish off.

Use the ch 1 space as your eyelets and lace up the back of your top with a ribbon.

Pattern, Tunic

Thia Tunic

You guys, I cannot even begin to express how excited I am to share the Thia Tunic pattern! The ladies above and I have put so much work into this and I hope you all love it as much as I do. Please share your work with me on instagram @leroocrochet or #thiatunic.

The Thia Tunic is a long top that can be worn with leggings, as a swim suit cover or just with a pair of jeans. It’s stitch sections leave a great chance for color work but also looks amazing solid. 

You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on ravelry or etsy. The PDF includes options for a 29″ and a 34″ tunic. 

Materials

Yarn: Any DK weight yarn. Good options are Lion’s Brand Coboo, Premier Bamboo Fair, Joy DK Yarn by Loops & Threads

Color A: 252 (328, 405, 482, 566, 650, 734, 818, 901) yards

Color B: 252 (328, 405, 482, 566, 650, 734, 818, 901) yards

Color C: 124 (164, 203, 241, 283, 325, 367, 409, 451) yards

I choose purple for Color A, speckled white for Color B, and yellow for Color C

Hook: 6.5mm – or whatever size is needed to achieve gauge

Notions: Yarn/tapestry needle

Sizing

Gauge: 6 v-st x 8 rows = 4”x4”

ch 72, in second ch from hook crochet then crochet across. Complete row

2 of pattern and repeat row 3 until you have 8 rows of v-stitches. Gauge is

met when you have exactly 6 v-sts per 4 inches.

Length: 31″ – 29″ and 34″ are available in the purchasable PDF on ravelry or etsy

Bust Size: 30” (34”, 38”, 42”, 46”, 50”, 54”, 58”, 62”)

Size up for a looser fit. If your size is not included, I’m so sorry, please email me and I’ll get your size added and be sure to include it in the future!

Pattern Key (US Terms)

ch: Chain
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
sk: Skip
sl st: Slip Stitch

sc: Single Crochet
hdc: Half Double Crochet
dc: Double Crochet
v-st: (dc, ch, dc) in same st
hdc v-st: (hdc, ch, hdc) in same st

Notes:

Turning chains do not count as stitches.

Pattern size instructions are specified as follows: xs (sm, md, lg, xl, 2xl, 3xl, 4xl, 5xl)

Gauge is super important to this pattern. If gauge is too loose the you will not achieve the correct length.

Pattern Summary:

This tunic is made as one long rectangle. The neck hole is made in the middle then the sides are seamed up. To create shaping at the hips some extra rows are worked.

This pattern has three repeating sections:

V-Stitches – this is where the width of the garment is made, each section of v-stitches gives you a width in inches as well as rows to keep your tunic the correct size.

Cross-back half double crochets – skip a stitch and hdc in the next. Then crossing in front of that stitch, hdc in the skipped stitch

Ladder stitches – Double crochet, chain one, skip a stitch, double crochet

Each of these sections are split up by a row of single crochets.

Purchase the ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy

Pattern Instructions

In Color C

Foundation: ch 284 (93 v-sts per row)

Row 1: In the second ch from your hook, sc, sc in each ch across.

Switch to Color A

Row 2: ch 2, turn; dc in first 2 sts, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st in next st* repeat from * to * until you reach the final 3 sts, sk 1, dc in last 2 sts.

Row 3: ch 2, turn; dc in the first 2 dc, v-st in each ch 1 sp across. dc in last 2 sts.

Stop here to double check your gauge – fold your tunic in half and measure.

Repeat row 3, 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) more times or until 2 (2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6) inches wide

Switch to Color C

Row 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across.

Switch to Color B

Row 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Row 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16): ch 2, turn; dc in first st, *ch 1, sk 1, dc* repeat from * to * across.

Row 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color C

Row 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color A

Row 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19): ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st.

Row 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20): ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st.

Switch to Color C

Row 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color B

Row 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22): ch 2, turn; dc in first 2 sts, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st in next st* repeat from * to * until you reach the final 3 sts, sk 1, dc in last 2 sts.

Repeat row 3, 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) times or until 2.5 (3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5) inches wide

Switch to Color C

Row 19 (21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color A

Row 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Create the neck hole:

ch 2, turn; dc in first st *ch 1, sk 1, dc* repeat from * to * 50 – times, ch 71, sk 71 sts, dc in next st, repeat from * to * 55 times (107 dc)

Row 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color C

Row 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color B

Row 24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40): ch 2, turn; dc in first 2 sts, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st in next st* repeat from * to * until you reach the final 3 sts, sk 1, dc in last 2 sts.

Repeat row 3, 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) times or until 2.5 (3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5) inches wide

Switch to Color C

Row 29 (32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color A

Row 30 (33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51, 54): ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st.

Row 31 (34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 55): ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st.

Switch to Color C

Row 32 (35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color B

Row 33 (36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51, 54, 57): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Row 34 (37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 55, 58): ch 2, turn; dc in first st, *ch 1, sk 1, dc* repeat from * to * across.

Row 35 (38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56, 59): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color C

Row 36 (39, 42, 45, 48, 51, 55, 57, 60): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color A

Row 37 (40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 56, 58, 61): ch 2, turn; dc in first 2 sts, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st in next st* repeat from * to * until you reach the final 3 sts, sk 1, dc in last 2 sts.

Repeat row 3, 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) times or until 2 (2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6) inches wide

Switch to Color C

Row 41 (45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65, 69, 73): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across. Finish off

Seaming

Lay your work out flat and, starting at any corner, count up along the side and mark the following stitches with a safety pin, piece of string, or stitch marker:

stitch 77 (75, 74, 74, 72, 71, 71, 69, 69)

stitch 116 (114, 112, 110, 108, 106, 104, 102, 100)

Repeat from all 4 corners. Leaving 8 stitches marked on your garment

Fold hamburger style and line up the marked stitches.

Slip stitch or whip stitch the two sides together with color C between your stitch markers, creating arm holes and leaving a large slit down each side.

Flare it

The flare is worked in three rows, each row you work up the slit and back down. While working down the slit you will be joining together the two sides with slip stitches

Using Color C

Attach your yarn to one of the bottom corners and work up the slit.

Row 1: ch 2, dc in first two stitch, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* , repeat from * to * 11 (11, 10, 10, 10, 9, 9, 9, 9) more times, *sk 2, hdc v-st*, repeat from * to * 5 more times, sk 2, sc in next st, *ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st* repeat from * to * 7 (6, 7, 7, 6, 7, 7, 6, 6) more times.

turn, and crochet down the other side of the slit: ch 1, sc in first stitch, *sl st in the ch 1 sp on the other half of the garment, sk 1, sc* repeat 7 (6, 7, 7, 6, 7, 7, 6, 6) more times, *sk 2, hdc v-st*, repeat from * to * 5 more times, *sk 2, v-st* , repeat from * to * 12 (12, 11, 11, 11, 10, 10, 10, 10) more times, sk 1, dc in last two stitches.

Row 2: ch 2 turn; dc in first two stitch, v-st in ch-sp of next 9 (9, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8) v-sts, hdc v-st in the ch-sp of next 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 3, 3, 3, 3) v-sts, sc next ch-sp of next v-st, *ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st* repeat from * to * 7 more times.

turn, and crochet down the other side of the slit: ch 1, sc in first stitch, *sl st in the ch 1 sp on the other half of the garment, sk 1, sc* repeat from * to * 7 more times, hdc v-st in the next ch-sp 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 3, 3, 3, 3) times,  v-st* in next 9 (9, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8) ch-sps,  dc in last two dc.

Row 3: ch 2 turn; dc in first two stitch, sk 1, v-st in next 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 4, 4, 4, 4) ch-spaces, hdc v-st in next 2 (2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) ch-sps, sc in next ch-sp, *ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st* repeat from * to * 5 more times.

turn, and crochet down the other side of the slit: ch 1, sc in first stitch, *sl st in the ch 1 sp on the other half of the garment, sk 1, sc* repeat 5 more times, hdc v-st in next 2 (2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) ch-sps, v-st in next 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 4, 4, 4, 4) ch-spaces, dc in last two dcs.

Finish off leaving a long end tail. Whip stitch the slit closed, or leave opened.

Repeat on the other side.

Pattern, Shawl

Snapdragon Shawl

Hey y’all! I’m so excited to present to you the snapdragon shawl. This shawl is beginner friendly and simple to make, and the end result is simply gorgeous. 

I love seeing your work, so share with me using the hashtag #snapdragonshawl and @leroocrochet.

This shawl was inspired by the stunning Mirage colorway I bought from wobble gobble yarns. Any brand of yarn can be used for this though, just as long as it’s a dk weight. Since you need only 700 yards for this, you can easily make it for under $10.

Purchase an ad free version of this pattern here

Sizing:

Gauge: isn’t important but 2 repeats of the main pattern x 8 rows is about 4”x4”

Material:

700 yards dk weight yarn
6.5mm/K crochet hook
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Stitches:

ch: chain
st: stitch
sk: skip
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet

Snapdragon Shawl Pattern:

foundation: ch 216

to increase the width, chain in multiples of 8

Row 1: sc in the second ch from hook, sc across (215 sc)

Row 2: ch 4, turn; sk first stitch, dc in next 3 sts, *sk 2, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st, sk 2, dc in next 3 sts* repeat from * to * until last 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc

Repeat row 2,  30 more times or until your shawl measures 16” wide.

Last row: ch 4, turn; sk 1, dc in next 3 stitches, *hdc in next dc, sc in next dc, sc in ch space, sc in next dc, hdc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc* repeat from * to * until last 2 sts, ch 1, dc. Finish Off

Weave in your ends with the yarn needle

 

Add Fringe:

To make the fringe, find a book/journal about 4” wide and wrap the yarn around 128 times. cut along the spine of the book, making 128 8” pieces of yarn.

Take 1 strand and fold it in half.

Insert your hook in a space created by ch 1 space at the beginning and end of every row and hook the yarn strand

Pull the loop up

Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull through. Tighten

Repeat twice in every row on both sides.

Share your finished work with me on facebook or instagram Use the hashtag #snapdragonshawl and tag me @leroocrochet

Purchase an ad free version of this pattern here

Accessories, Pattern

One Skein Shrug

Every time I look in my stash and see only one skein of a colorway, I find myself wondering what on earth I’m going to do with that. So I made this pattern for orphan skeins. Just one skein is needed for this adorable shrug that goes with anything! I love seeing your work so share it with me using the hashtag #oneskeinshrug

Before I get into the pattern, I wanted to point out the three images in the bottom row above. These are the work of my beautiful testers. I have a lot of designs coming down that need testing, if you’re interested sign up to get tester notifications.

Now onto the pattern!

Purchase an ad free version of this pattern here 

Sizing:

Gauge: 20 dc x 10 rows = 4″x4″

This pattern comes in the following sizes, the measurement refers to shoulder to shoulder width:

  • xs/sm – 13-15”
  • sm/md – 14.5-16.5”
  • md/lg – 15.5-17.5”
  • xl-xxl – 17-19”

Material:

Yarn: 300 (330, 360, 390, 430) yards fingering weight

  • Yarn pictured is from summitrdfibers and handmade home fibers
  • Alternatives: summer nights by lion brand, woollike by loops and threads

Hook: 4.5mm/7 & 3.75/F
Yarn Needle for weaving in ends

Stitches:

ch: chain
st: stitch
sk: skip
ch sp: chain space
ss: slip stitch

sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
hdc: half double crochet
fpdc: front post double crochet
bpdc: back post double

One Skein Shrug Pattern:

Purchase an ad free version of this pattern here 

Body:

foundation: ch 74 (80, 86, 86)

row 1: dc in 5th ch from hook, *ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc* repeat across – (23 [25, 27, 27]) ch sps + turning chain)

row 2: ch 4, turn; *dc in ch sp, ch 2* repeat across to turning ch, dc in turning ch space

repeat row 2 8 (8, 11, 11) more times

row 10 (10, 13, 13): ch 4 turn; dc in ch sp, *ch 2, dc in next ch sp* repeat * 8 (8, 9, 9) more times, ch 41 (47, 50, 50). ss in turning ch of the row below – (10 [10, 11, 11] dc & 42 (48, 51, 51) ch)

repeat row 2 41 (43, 47, 51) times

repeat row 10

repeat row 2 10 (10, 13, 13) times

Finish Off

 

Sleeves:

Locate the slip stitch made into the top of the garment to form the arm hole. count 10 rows in and mark the post of that stitch.

Fold the other side of the arm hole over and attach the yarn to the marked post and the first row. ss along the top to attach.

ch 4

row 1: dc in the first ch sp below.

Working along the arm hole ch 2, *dc, ch 2* in each ch sp. ss in the ch 4 space.

row 2: ch 4, turn; *dc in ch sp, ch 2* repeat ss in ch 4 space.

repeat row 2 8 (8, 11, 11) times FO

Repeat on the other side.

Border:

attach yarn to the right inside corner of your top as shown

row 1: ch 4, dc in next space, *ch 2, dc in next stitch* repeat up the side, around the neck and down the other side and stop – do not edge along the bottom

row 2: ch 1 turn; sc in ch sp, *5 dc in next ch sp, sc in next ch sp* repeat up the side of the body.

When you reach the neck 3 dc in next ch sp, sc in next ch, across to the other side. *5 dc in next ch sp, sc in next ch sp* repeat up the side of the body.

Bottom Ribbing:

Change to smaller hook

row 1: ch 2; 2dc in each space along the bottom

row 2: ch 2, turn; hdc in first st. *fpdc, bpdc* repeat to last st. hdc.

Repeat row 2 at least 1 more time. Continue to repeat until you run out of yarn or are happy with the width of the ribbing

Finish off an weave in your ends

Purchase an ad free version of this pattern here 

Accessories, Pattern

Once Upon a Dream Shawl

The Once Upon a Dream Shawl was inspired by the yarn, a beautiful blue and pink that instantly made me think of that scene from Sleeping Beauty where the fairies are fighting over the color of Aurora’s dress. So I made this shawl to be fit for a princess. It’s light, works up quick and can easily be adjusted to be as big or as small as you wish. Either continue increasing more or use a thicker yarn with a bigger hook. Share your shawl with the hashtag #OnceUponADreamShawl

For a downloadable, ad free version click here. It also includes stitch charts

Sizing:

Gauge: 14dc x 9 rows = 4”x4”
Finished Size: 5’x18″

Materials:

Yarn: 
C1 – 231 yds of Pink DK yarn
C2 – 231 yds of Blue DK yarn
The yarn pictured is from Handmade Home Fibers but any DK weight yarn will do

Hook: 6.00mm/J or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Stitches

ch – Chain
st – Stitch
sk – Skip
yo – Yarn Over
dc – Double Crochet
ch-sp – Chain Space

v-st – dc ch1 dc in same st
dv-st – 2dc ch1 2dc in same st
hhdcp – yo, insert hook into next st, yo and draw through. Yo and insert hook into same st, yo and draw through. There will be 5 loops on your hook. Yo and pull through all loops.

Color Changes

row 1 – 37 – C1
row 38 and 39 – C2
row 40 – 45 – C1
row 46 and 47 – C2
row 48 – 51 – C1
row 52 and 53 – C2
row 54 and 55 – C1

row 56 and 57 – C2
row 58 and 59 – C1
row 60 – 63 – C2
row 64 and 65 – C1
row 66 – 71 – C2
row 72 and 73 – C1
row 74 – 112 – C2

Once Upon a Dream Shawl Pattern

For a downloadable, ad free version click here. It also includes stitch charts and pictures!

Row 1: ch 5; dc in 4th ch from hook

Row 2: ch 3, turn; dc in ch-sp of st below, ch 1 dc in same space

Row 3: ch 4

dc in 1st st 

sk 1 dc, dc in turning ch

row 4: ch 3, turn; dc in 1st st

ch 1, sk the next v-st, (dc 2 ch 1 dc 2) in the ch1-sp of next v-st

row 5: ch 4, turn; dc in 1st st (counts as v-st), v-st in ch1-sp of dv-st

v-st in each ch1-sp across. dc in top of turning ch

row 6: chain 4

insert hook into center of first v-stitch and double crochet

Complete double-v stitch – dc ch 1 2dc in same v-stitch

Row 7: ch 4, turn; dc in 1st st (counts as v-st), v-st in each ch1-sp across, dc in top of turning ch

Row 8: ch 3, turn; dc in 1st st, *ch 1 sk next v-st, dv-st in ch1-sp of next v-st* repeat from * across

Row 9: ch 4, turn; dc in 1st st (counts as v-st), v-st in each ch1-sp across, dc in top of turning ch

Row 10: ch 4, turn; dv-st in next ch1-sp, *ch 1, sk next v-st, dv-st in next v-st* repeat from * across

Rows 11 – 54: Repeat rows 7-10 eleven (11) more times

Row 55: ch 4, turn; dc in 1st st (counts as v-st), v-st in each ch1-sp across, dc in top of turning ch

Row 56: ch 3, turn; dc in 1st st, *ch 1 sk next v-st, dv-st in ch1-sp of next v-st* repeat from * across

Decrease:

Row 57: Chain 3

dc ch 1 dc in middle of double-v stitch

v-stitch in each of the next chain 1 spaces

dc in turning ch

Row 58: ch 3, turn; v-st in each ch1-sp across until only one v-st remains. ch 1

Yo and insert your hook in the turning chain gap, yo pull up loop

Yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through last 2 loops to finish the dc

Row 59: ch 3, turn; v-st in each ch1-sp across, dc in turning ch

Row 60: ch 3, turn; dc in 1st st, *ch 1 sk next v-st, dv-st in ch1-sp of next v-st* repeat from * until last v-st, dc in turning ch

Row 61-108: Repeat rows 57 – 60 twelve times

Row 109: ch 3, turn; v-st in each ch1-sp across, dc in turning ch

Row 110: ch 4, turn; dv-st in next ch1-sp, ch 1, sk next v-st, dv-st in next v-st*

Row 111: ch 3, turn; v-st in each ch1-sp across, dc in turning ch

Row 112: ch 3, turn; dc in ch1-sp fasten off

Border:

Around each turning chain or last dc of a row complete a hhdcp picot:

Yo, insert hook into row, yo, pull up loop, yo insert hook into same st, yo, pull up loop. You’ll have 5 loops on your hook

Yo, pull through all loops

Chain 3, insert hook into the hhdcp (holes highlighted above). Yo, pull up loop and pull through to complete your picot

Make an extra hhdcp-picot at the point of the shawl

Change yarn color. Continue down the shawl until you reach the edge. FO

For a downloadable, ad free version click here. It also includes stitch charts