Blog

Pattern, Shirt

Ocean Dive Tee

This is a top of options. There’s options for a deep v, a less deep v, sleeves or no sleeves and a longer or shorter top. Here you’ll find the pattern for the sleeveless, deep v top, however the full pattern is available for purchase on Ravelry and Etsy

Materials

Yarn: Any DK yarn, I recommend a cotton,

I used yarn bee sugarwheel cotton in Harbor Wish.

Other options split-include: Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend or Coboo, Premier Bamboo Fair.

Acrylic yarn like Joy DK will also work

Hook: I/5.5mm hook or size needed to achieve gauge

Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Sizing

Size

Bust

Yardage

xs

30

530

sm

34

625

md

38

700

lg

42

790

xl

46

880

2xl

50

980

3xl

54

1075

4xl

58

1175

5xl

62

1275

 

Gauge: 10 clusters x 8 rows = 4”x4”

Pattern Key (US terms)

st – Stitch

sl st – slip stitch

yo – yarn over

fo – finish off

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

cl – cluster

cl dec – cluster decrease

dc2tog – double crochet 2 together

Special Stitches

Cluster (cl)

yo, insert hook in stitch, yo pull up loop, yo pull through 2 loops

yo, insert hook in same stitch, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops

yo, pull through all loops

Cluster Decrease (cl-dec)

yo, insert hook in stitch, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops

yo, insert hook in next stitch, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops

yo, insert hook in same stitch, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops

yo, pull through all loops

Split increase (split-inc):

A split-increase is a cluster split across 2 stitches (the cluster before and after do not count as part of this stitch, and are part of the cluster count before and after the increase)

Yo, insert hook in same st as last cluster, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2, yo insert hook in next st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2, yo, pull through all.

When you move on to the next cluster in the pattern, work in the same stitch.

Double Crochet 2 Together (dc2tog):

These are done at the beginning and ends of rows to create the back v.

Yo, insert hook in next stitch, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2, yo, insert hook in next stitch, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2, yo, pull through both.

Continue in next stitch

Pattern Notes:

Ch 2 does not count as a stitch

Sizes are referenced as xs (sm, md, lg, xl, 2x, 3x, 4x, 5x, 6x)

This pattern splits the hem for all lengths because the chain is not stretchy at all. The split hem allows it to lay better.

Options are available in the ad free PDF which can be purchased on Etsy or Ravelry

As with all garments, gauge is super important. Please swatch and test your gauge to make sure you’re making the right size.

Please refer to the special stitch guide as clusters, increases and decreases may be different than you are used to

Pattern Instructions

Back Hem

Foundation: loosely ch 40 (45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85)

Row 1: ch 2 more regularly, cl in the 3rd ch from your hook, cl in each ch

For a shorter shirt: finish off

For longer shirt: Row 2 – 9: ch 2, turn; cluster in each st across, finish off

Front Hem:

Foundation: loosely ch 40 (45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85)

Row 1: ch 2 more regularly, cl in the 3rd ch from your hook, cl in each ch

For longer shirt: Row 2 -9: ch 2, turn; cluster in each st across

Both Lengths:

Row 2 | 10 :  ch 2, turn; cl in each st across. Take the back hem and continue clustering in each stitch across. Sl st the top together to make a circle. Finish off

Row 3 | 11: Count back 21 (23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41, 43) sts. Reattach your yarn.  ch 2, turn; in same st as sl st (it will feel like you’re stitching backwards) cl, cl in each st across, sl st in first cl to join (80, [90, 100, 110,  120, 130, 140, 150, 160, 170 cls])

NOTE: Your first cluster will always be inn the same stitch as the slip stitch

Row 4 – 8 | 12 – 16: ch 2, turn; in same st as sl st, cl, cl in each st across, sl st in first cl to join (80, [90, 100, 110,  120, 130, 140, 150, 160, 170] cls)

Row 9 | 17: ch 2, turn; cl in same st as sl st, cl 19 (21, 24, 26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41) more times, cl-dec, cl in next 36 (42, 46, 52, 56, 62, 66, 72, 76, 82)  sts, cl-dec, cl in next 20 (22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40, 42) sts, sl st in first cl to join

Row 10 | 18: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across (78 [88, 98, 108, 118, 128, 138, 148, 158, 168] cls)

Row 11 | 19: ch 2, turn; cl in same st as sl st, cl 19 (21, 24, 26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41) more times, cl-dec, cl in next 34 (40, 44, 50, 54, 60, 64, 70, 74, 80)  sts, cl-dec, cl in next 20 (22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40, 42) sts, sl st in first cl to join

Row 12 | 20: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across (76 [86, 96, 106, 116, 126, 136, 146, 156, 166] cls)

Row 13 | 21: ch 2, turn; cl in same st as sl st, cl 19 (21, 24, 26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41) more times, cl-dec, cl in next 32 (38, 42, 48, 52, 58, 62, 68, 72, 78)  sts, cl-dec, cl in next 20 (22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40, 42) sts, sl st in first cl to join

Row 14 | 22: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across (74 [84, 94, 104, 114, 124, 134, 144, 154, 164] cls)

Row 15 | 23:  ch 2, turn; cl in same st as sl st, cl 19 (21, 24, 26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41) more times, cl-dec, cl in next 30 (36, 40, 46, 50, 56, 60, 66, 70, 76)  sts, cl-dec, cl in next 20 (22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40, 42) sts

Row 16 & 17 | 24 & 25: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across (72 [82, 92, 102, 112, 122, 132, 142, 152, 162] cls)

Row 18 | 26: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until final 2 sts, dc2tog

Row 19 | 27: ch 2, turn; dc in 1st st, cl in next 18 (20, 23, 25, 28, 30, 33, 35, 38, 40) more times, split-inc, cl in next 32 (38, 42, 48, 52, 58, 62, 68, 72, 78)  sts, split-inc, cl in next 18 (20, 23, 25, 28, 30, 33, 35, 38, 40) sts, dc in last st

Row 20 | 28: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until final 2 sts, dc2tog

Row 21 | 29: ch 2, turn; dc in 1 st, cl in next 17 (19, 22, 24, 27, 29, 32, 34, 37, 39) more times, split-inc, cl in next 34 (40, 44, 50, 54, 60, 64, 70, 74, 80) sts, split-inc, cl in next 17 (19, 22, 24, 27, 29, 32, 34, 37, 39) sts, dc in last st

Row 22 | 30: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until final 2 sts, dc2tog

Row 23 | 31: ch 2, turn; dc in 1st st, cl in next 16 (18, 21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38) sts, split-inc, cl in next 36 (42, 46, 52, 56, 62, 66, 72, 76, 82) sts, split-inc, cl in next 16 (18, 21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38) sts, dc in last st

Row 24 | 32: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until final 2 sts, dc2tog

Row 25 | 33: ch 2, turn; dc in 1st st, cl in next 15 (17, 20, 21, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37) sts, split-inc, cl in next 38 (44, 48, 54, 58, 64, 68, 74, 78, 84) sts, split-inc, cl in next 15 (17, 20, 21, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37) sts, dc in last st

Row 26 | 34 : ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until final 2 sts, dc2tog

Row 27 | 35 : ch 2, turn; dc in first st, cl in each st across until last st, dc in last st

Row 28 | 36 : ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until final 2 sts, dc2tog

BACK, SIDE A

Back side A refers to the completed portion above. It is completed with the yarn still attached to your project.

Row 29 | 37: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in next 13 (16, 18, 21, 23, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35) sts, dc. Count 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6) stitches over and mark the stitch with a stitch marker.

Row 30 | 38: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st until 1 st remains, dc

Row 31 | 39: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

XS:

Row 32 | 40: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st across

Row 33 | 41: ch 2, turn;  cl in each st until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

Row 34 – 40 | 42 – 48: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

SM-6x:

Row 32 | 40: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st until 1 st remains, dc

Row 33 | 41: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

Repeat rows 32 | 40 and 33 | 41: 0, (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times.

SM:

Row 34 – 41 | 42 – 49: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

MD:

Row 34 | 42: ch 2, turn; cl in each st until 1 st remains, dc

Row 35 | 43: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across

Row 36 – 42 | 44 – 50: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

LG:

Row 36 – 43 | 44 – 51: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

XL:

Rows 38 – 44 | 46 – 52: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

2x-6x:

Row 34 | 42: ch 2, turn; cl in each st until 1 st remains, dc

Row 35 | 43: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across

repeat rows 34 | 42 and 35 | 43 x (x, x, x, x, 2, 1, 2, 1, 2) times

ch 2, turn; cl in each st across for x (x, x, x, x, 2, 3, 2, 2, 1) rows. Finish off.

BACK, SIDE B

refers to the uncompleted portion of the picture on page 11. Yarn is attached where the stitch marker is in the picture.

From the split, count over 16 (19, 21, 24, 26, 28, 30, 33, 35, 38). Attach yarn. Place a stitch marker 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6) further from the split.

Row 29 | 37: ch 2, dc2tog in same stitch you attached your yarn. cl in each st until 1 st remains, dc

Row 30 | 38: ch 2, turn;  dc, cl in each st until 2 sts remains, dc2tog

Row 31 | 39: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

XS:

Row 32 | 40: ch 2, turn;  cl in each st across until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

XS Row 33 | 41: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog , cl in each st across

XS: Row 34 – 40 | 42 – 48: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

SM-6x:

Row 32 | 40: ch 2, turn;  dc, cl in each st until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

Row 33 | 41: ch 2, turn;  dc2tog, cl in each st until 2 sts remain, dc2tog

Repeat rows 32 | 40 and 33 | 41: 0, (0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times.

SM:

Row 34 – 41 | 42 – 49: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

MD:

Row 34 | 42: ch 2, turn; dc, cl in each st across

Row 35 | 43: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across until 2 stitch remain, dc2tog

Row 36 – 42 | 44 – 50: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

LG:

Row 36 – 43 | 44 – 51: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

XL:

Rows 38 – 44 | 46 – 52: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across.

Finish Off

2x-6x:

Row 34 | 42: ch 2, turn; dc, cl in each st across

Row 35 | 43: ch 2, turn; cl in each st across until 2 stitches remain, dc2tog

repeat rows 34 | 42 and 35 | 43 x (x, x, x, x, 2, 1, 2, 1, 2) times

ch 2, turn; cl in each st across for x (x, x, x, x, 2, 3, 2, 2, 1) rows. Finish off.

Front Panel

with right side facing, attach your yarn at the marked stitch on the right.

Row 29 } 37: ch2, dc2tog, cl in each st until 1 stitch remains before the stitch marker. dc2tog

Row 30: ch 2, turn; dc2tog, cl in each st across until 2 stitches remain, dc2tog

repeat row 30 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) more times

Repeat the following row 8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13) times:

ch 2, turn; cluster in each st across;

Make the front straps:

ch 2, turn; cl in next 10 (11, 10, 13, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18) sts – repeat for 3 more rows

ch 1, turn, sl st together this strap with the back strap.

Finish off

Lay top out as you see in the picture on the previous page. Count 10 (11, 10, 13, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18) sts to the right of the left corner of the front panel.

ch 2, cl in each st.

ch 2, turn; cluster in each st across; Repeat 2 more times.

ch 1, turn, sl st together this strap with the back strap.

finish off

Optional Scalloped Edging:

Slip Stitch to attach your yarn to the V, just below the sleeve seam. *Sk 1 row, 5 dc in next row, sk 1 row, sc in next row* repeat from * to * down and back up the V. slip stitch instead of sc on your last st. Finish off.

To Create A Laced Back:

Slip Stitch to attach your yarn to the V, just below the sleeve seam. *Sk 1 row, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next row, sk 1 row, sc in next row* repeat from * to * down and back up the V. slip stitch instead of sc on your last st. Finish off.

Use the ch 1 space as your eyelets and lace up the back of your top with a ribbon.

Pattern, Tunic

Thia Tunic

You guys, I cannot even begin to express how excited I am to share the Thia Tunic pattern! The ladies above and I have put so much work into this and I hope you all love it as much as I do. Please share your work with me on instagram @leroocrochet or #thiatunic.

The Thia Tunic is a long top that can be worn with leggings, as a swim suit cover or just with a pair of jeans. It’s stitch sections leave a great chance for color work but also looks amazing solid. 

You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on ravelry or etsy. The PDF includes options for a 29″ and a 34″ tunic. 

Materials

Yarn: Any DK weight yarn. Good options are Lion’s Brand Coboo, Premier Bamboo Fair, Joy DK Yarn by Loops & Threads

Color A: 252 (328, 405, 482, 566, 650, 734, 818, 901) yards

Color B: 252 (328, 405, 482, 566, 650, 734, 818, 901) yards

Color C: 124 (164, 203, 241, 283, 325, 367, 409, 451) yards

I choose purple for Color A, speckled white for Color B, and yellow for Color C

Hook: 6.5mm – or whatever size is needed to achieve gauge

Notions: Yarn/tapestry needle

Sizing

Gauge: 6 v-st x 8 rows = 4”x4”

ch 72, in second ch from hook crochet then crochet across. Complete row

2 of pattern and repeat row 3 until you have 8 rows of v-stitches. Gauge is

met when you have exactly 6 v-sts per 4 inches.

Length: 31″ – 29″ and 34″ are available in the purchasable PDF on ravelry or etsy

Bust Size: 30” (34”, 38”, 42”, 46”, 50”, 54”, 58”, 62”)

Size up for a looser fit. If your size is not included, I’m so sorry, please email me and I’ll get your size added and be sure to include it in the future!

 

Pattern Key (US Terms)

ch: Chain
sp: Space
st(s): Stitch(es)
sk: Skip
sl st: Slip Stitch

sc: Single Crochet
hdc: Half Double Crochet
dc: Double Crochet
v-st: (dc, ch, dc) in same st
hdc v-st: (hdc, ch, hdc) in same st

Notes:

Turning chains do not count as stitches.

Pattern size instructions are specified as follows: xs (sm, md, lg, xl, 2xl, 3xl, 4xl, 5xl)

Gauge is super important to this pattern. If gauge is too loose the you will not achieve the correct length.

Pattern Summary:

This tunic is made as one long rectangle. The neck hole is made in the middle then the sides are seamed up. To create shaping at the hips some extra rows are worked.

This pattern has three repeating sections:

V-Stitches – this is where the width of the garment is made, each section of v-stitches gives you a width in inches as well as rows to keep your tunic the correct size.

Cross-back half double crochets – skip a stitch and hdc in the next. Then crossing in front of that stitch, hdc in the skipped stitch

Ladder stitches – Double crochet, chain one, skip a stitch, double crochet

Each of these sections are split up by a row of single crochets.

Purchase the ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy

Pattern Instructions

In Color C

Foundation: ch 284 (93 v-sts per row)

Row 1: In the second ch from your hook, sc, sc in each ch across.

Switch to Color A

Row 2: ch 2, turn; dc in first 2 sts, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st in next st* repeat from * to * until you reach the final 3 sts, sk 1, dc in last 2 sts.

Row 3: ch 2, turn; dc in the first 2 dc, v-st in each ch 1 sp across. dc in last 2 sts.

Stop here to double check your gauge – fold your tunic in half and measure.

Repeat row 3, 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) more times or until 2 (2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6) inches wide

Switch to Color C

Row 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across.

Switch to Color B

Row 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Row 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16): ch 2, turn; dc in first st, *ch 1, sk 1, dc* repeat from * to * across.

Row 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color C

Row 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color A

Row 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19): ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st.

Row 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20): ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st.

Switch to Color C

Row 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color B

Row 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22): ch 2, turn; dc in first 2 sts, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st in next st* repeat from * to * until you reach the final 3 sts, sk 1, dc in last 2 sts.

Repeat row 3, 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) times or until 2.5 (3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5) inches wide

Switch to Color C

Row 19 (21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color A

Row 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Create the neck hole:

ch 2, turn; dc in first st *ch 1, sk 1, dc* repeat from * to * 50 – times, ch 71, sk 71 sts, dc in next st, repeat from * to * 55 times (107 dc)

Row 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color C

Row 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color B

Row 24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40): ch 2, turn; dc in first 2 sts, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st in next st* repeat from * to * until you reach the final 3 sts, sk 1, dc in last 2 sts.

Repeat row 3, 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) times or until 2.5 (3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5) inches wide

Switch to Color C

Row 29 (32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color A

Row 30 (33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51, 54): ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st.

Row 31 (34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 55): ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st.

Switch to Color C

Row 32 (35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color B

Row 33 (36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51, 54, 57): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Row 34 (37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 55, 58): ch 2, turn; dc in first st, *ch 1, sk 1, dc* repeat from * to * across.

Row 35 (38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56, 59): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color C

Row 36 (39, 42, 45, 48, 51, 55, 57, 60): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across

Switch to Color A

Row 37 (40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 56, 58, 61): ch 2, turn; dc in first 2 sts, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st in next st* repeat from * to * until you reach the final 3 sts, sk 1, dc in last 2 sts.

Repeat row 3, 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) times or until 2 (2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6) inches wide

Switch to Color C

Row 41 (45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65, 69, 73): ch 1, turn; sc in each st across. Finish off

Seaming

Lay your work out flat and, starting at any corner, count up along the side and mark the following stitches with a safety pin, piece of string, or stitch marker:

stitch 77 (75, 74, 74, 72, 71, 71, 69, 69)

stitch 116 (114, 112, 110, 108, 106, 104, 102, 100)

Repeat from all 4 corners. Leaving 8 stitches marked on your garment

Fold hamburger style and line up the marked stitches.

Slip stitch or whip stitch the two sides together with color C between your stitch markers, creating arm holes and leaving a large slit down each side.

Flare it

The flare is worked in three rows, each row you work up the slit and back down. While working down the slit you will be joining together the two sides with slip stitches

Using Color C

Attach your yarn to one of the bottom corners and work up the slit.

Row 1: ch 2, dc in first two stitch, sk 1, v-st in next st, *sk 2, v-st* , repeat from * to * 11 (11, 10, 10, 10, 9, 9, 9, 9) more times, *sk 2, hdc v-st*, repeat from * to * 5 more times, sk 2, sc in next st, *ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st* repeat from * to * 7 (6, 7, 7, 6, 7, 7, 6, 6) more times.

turn, and crochet down the other side of the slit: ch 1, sc in first stitch, *sl st in the ch 1 sp on the other half of the garment, sk 1, sc* repeat 7 (6, 7, 7, 6, 7, 7, 6, 6) more times, *sk 2, hdc v-st*, repeat from * to * 5 more times, *sk 2, v-st* , repeat from * to * 12 (12, 11, 11, 11, 10, 10, 10, 10) more times, sk 1, dc in last two stitches.

Row 2: ch 2 turn; dc in first two stitch, v-st in ch-sp of next 9 (9, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8) v-sts, hdc v-st in the ch-sp of next 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 3, 3, 3, 3) v-sts, sc next ch-sp of next v-st, *ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st* repeat from * to * 7 more times.

turn, and crochet down the other side of the slit: ch 1, sc in first stitch, *sl st in the ch 1 sp on the other half of the garment, sk 1, sc* repeat from * to * 7 more times, hdc v-st in the next ch-sp 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 3, 3, 3, 3) times,  v-st* in next 9 (9, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8) ch-sps,  dc in last two dc.

Row 3: ch 2 turn; dc in first two stitch, sk 1, v-st in next 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 4, 4, 4, 4) ch-spaces, hdc v-st in next 2 (2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) ch-sps, sc in next ch-sp, *ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st* repeat from * to * 5 more times.

turn, and crochet down the other side of the slit: ch 1, sc in first stitch, *sl st in the ch 1 sp on the other half of the garment, sk 1, sc* repeat 5 more times, hdc v-st in next 2 (2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) ch-sps, v-st in next 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 4, 4, 4, 4) ch-spaces, dc in last two dcs.

Finish off leaving a long end tail. Whip stitch the slit closed, or leave opened.

Repeat on the other side.

Pattern, Shawl

Snapdragon Shawl

Hey y’all! I’m so excited to present to you the snapdragon shawl. This shawl is beginner friendly and simple to make, and the end result is simply gorgeous. 

I love seeing your work, so share with me using the hashtag #snapdragonshawl and @leroocrochet.

This shawl was inspired by the stunning Mirage colorway I bought from wobble gobble yarns. Any brand of yarn can be used for this though, just as long as it’s a dk weight. Since you need only 700 yards for this, you can easily make it for under $10.

Purchase an ad free version of this pattern here

Sizing:

Gauge: isn’t important but 2 repeats of the main pattern x 8 rows is about 4”x4”

Material:

700 yards dk weight yarn
6.5mm/K crochet hook
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Stitches:

ch: chain
st: stitch
sk: skip
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet

Snapdragon Shawl Pattern:

foundation: ch 216

to increase the width, chain in multiples of 8

Row 1: sc in the second ch from hook, sc across (215 sc)

Row 2: ch 4, turn; sk first stitch, dc in next 3 sts, *sk 2, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st, sk 2, dc in next 3 sts* repeat from * to * until last 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc

Repeat row 2,  30 more times or until your shawl measures 16” wide.

Last row: ch 4, turn; sk 1, dc in next 3 stitches, *hdc in next dc, sc in next dc, sc in ch space, sc in next dc, hdc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc* repeat from * to * until last 2 sts, ch 1, dc. Finish Off

Weave in your ends with the yarn needle

 

Add Fringe:

To make the fringe, find a book/journal about 4” wide and wrap the yarn around 128 times. cut along the spine of the book, making 128 8” pieces of yarn.

Take 1 strand and fold it in half.

Insert your hook in a space created by ch 1 space at the beginning and end of every row and hook the yarn strand

Pull the loop up

Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull through. Tighten

Repeat twice in every row on both sides.

Share your finished work with me on facebook or instagram Use the hashtag #snapdragonshawl and tag me @leroocrochet

Purchase an ad free version of this pattern here

Accessories, Pattern

One Skein Shrug

Every time I look in my stash and see only one skein of a colorway, I find myself wondering what on earth I’m going to do with that. So I made this pattern for orphan skeins. Just one skein is needed for this adorable shrug that goes with anything! I love seeing your work so share it with me using the hashtag #oneskeinshrug

Before I get into the pattern, I wanted to point out the three images in the bottom row above. These are the work of my beautiful testers. I have a lot of designs coming down that need testing, if you’re interested sign up to get tester notifications.

Now onto the pattern!

Purchase an ad free version of this pattern here 

Sizing:

Gauge: 20 dc x 10 rows = 4″x4″

This pattern comes in the following sizes, the measurement refers to shoulder to shoulder width:

  • xs/sm – 13-15”
  • sm/md – 14.5-16.5”
  • md/lg – 15.5-17.5”
  • xl-xxl – 17-19”

Material:

Yarn: 300 (330, 360, 390, 430) yards fingering weight

  • Yarn pictured is from summitrdfibers and handmade home fibers
  • Alternatives: summer nights by lion brand, woollike by loops and threads

Hook: 4.5mm/7 & 3.75/F
Yarn Needle for weaving in ends

Stitches:

ch: chain
st: stitch
sk: skip
ch sp: chain space
ss: slip stitch

sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
hdc: half double crochet
fpdc: front post double crochet
bpdc: back post double

One Skein Shrug Pattern:

Body:

foundation: ch 74 (80, 86, 86)

row 1: dc in 5th ch from hook, *ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc* repeat across – (23 [25, 27, 27]) ch sps + turning chain)

row 2: ch 4, turn; *dc in ch sp, ch 2* repeat across to turning ch, dc in turning ch space

repeat row 2 8 (8, 11, 11) more times

row 10 (10, 13, 13): ch 4 turn; dc in ch sp, *ch 2, dc in next ch sp* repeat * 8 (8, 9, 9) more times, ch 41 (47, 50, 50). ss in turning ch of the row below – (10 [10, 11, 11] dc & 42 (48, 51, 51) ch)

repeat row 2 41 (43, 47, 51) times

repeat row 10

repeat row 2 10 (10, 13, 13) times

Finish Off

 

Sleeves:

Locate the slip stitch made into the top of the garment to form the arm hole. count 10 rows in and mark the post of that stitch.

 

Fold the other side of the arm hole over and attach the yarn to the marked post and the first row. ss along the top to attach.

 

ch 4

 

row 1: dc in the first ch sp below.

Working along the arm hole ch 2, *dc, ch 2* in each ch sp. ss in the ch 4 space.

row 2: ch 4, turn; *dc in ch sp, ch 2* repeat ss in ch 4 space.

repeat row 2 8 (8, 11, 11) times FO

Repeat on the other side.

 

Border:

attach yarn to the right inside corner of your top as shown

 

row 1: ch 4, dc in next space, *ch 2, dc in next stitch* repeat up the side, around the neck and down the other side and stop – do not edge along the bottom

row 2: ch 1 turn; sc in ch sp, *5 dc in next ch sp, sc in next ch sp* repeat up the side of the body.

When you reach the neck 3 dc in next ch sp, sc in next ch, across to the other side. *5 dc in next ch sp, sc in next ch sp* repeat up the side of the body.

 

Bottom Ribbing:

Change to smaller hook

row 1: ch 2; 2dc in each space along the bottom

row 2: ch 2, turn; hdc in first st. *fpdc, bpdc* repeat to last st. hdc.

Repeat row 2 at least 1 more time. Continue to repeat until you run out of yarn or are happy with the width of the ribbing

Finish off an weave in your ends

Purchase an ad free version of this pattern here 

 
Modelled shawl
Accessories, Pattern

Once Upon a Dream Shawl

The Once Upon a Dream Shawl was inspired by the yarn, a beautiful blue and pink that instantly made me think of that scene from Sleeping Beauty where the fairies are fighting over the color of Aurora’s dress. So I made this shawl to be fit for a princess. It’s light, works up quick and can easily be adjusted to be as big or as small as you wish. Either continue increasing more or use a thicker yarn with a bigger hook. Share your shawl with the hashtag #OnceUponADreamShawl

For a downloadable, ad free version click here. It also includes stitch charts

 

Sizing:

Gauge: 14dc x 9 rows = 4”x4”
Finished Size: 5’x18″

 

Materials:

Yarn: 
C1 – 231 yds of Pink DK yarn
C2 – 231 yds of Blue DK yarn
The yarn pictured is from Handmade Home Fibers but any DK weight yarn will do

Hook: 6.00mm/J or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends

 

Stitches

ch – Chain
st – Stitch
sk – Skip
yo – Yarn Over
dc – Double Crochet
ch-sp – Chain Space

v-st – dc ch1 dc in same st
dv-st – 2dc ch1 2dc in same st
hhdcp – yo, insert hook into next st, yo and draw through. Yo and insert hook into same st, yo and draw through. There will be 5 loops on your hook. Yo and pull through all loops.

Color Changes

row 1 – 37 – C1
row 38 and 39 – C2
row 40 – 45 – C1
row 46 and 47 – C2
row 48 – 51 – C1
row 52 and 53 – C2
row 54 and 55 – C1

row 56 and 57 – C2
row 58 and 59 – C1
row 60 – 63 – C2
row 64 and 65 – C1
row 66 – 71 – C2
row 72 and 73 – C1
row 74 – 112 – C2

Once Upon a Dream Shawl Pattern

Row 1: ch 5; dc in 4th ch from hook

Row 2: ch 3, turn; dc in ch-sp of st below, ch 1 dc in same space

Row 3: ch 4

v st increase step 1

dc in 1st st 

DC in first stitch
V-st increat step 2

sk 1 dc, dc in turning ch

row 4: ch 3, turn; dc in 1st st

double v stitch start

ch 1, sk the next v-st, (dc 2 ch 1 dc 2) in the ch1-sp of next v-st

double v

row 5: ch 4, turn; dc in 1st st (counts as v-st), v-st in ch1-sp of dv-st

v st increase - last step

v-st in each ch1-sp across. dc in top of turning ch

row 6: chain 4

double v chain

insert hook into center of first v-stitch and double crochet

double v step 1

Complete double-v stitch – dc ch 1 2dc in same v-stitch

double v start

Row 7: ch 4, turn; dc in 1st st (counts as v-st), v-st in each ch1-sp across, dc in top of turning ch

Row 8: ch 3, turn; dc in 1st st, *ch 1 sk next v-st, dv-st in ch1-sp of next v-st* repeat from * across

Row 9: ch 4, turn; dc in 1st st (counts as v-st), v-st in each ch1-sp across, dc in top of turning ch

Row 10: ch 4, turn; dv-st in next ch1-sp, *ch 1, sk next v-st, dv-st in next v-st* repeat from * across

Rows 11 – 54: Repeat rows 7-10 eleven (11) more times

Row 55: ch 4, turn; dc in 1st st (counts as v-st), v-st in each ch1-sp across, dc in top of turning ch

Row 56: ch 3, turn; dc in 1st st, *ch 1 sk next v-st, dv-st in ch1-sp of next v-st* repeat from * across

Decrease:

Row 57: Chain 3

v stitch decrease step 1

dc ch 1 dc in middle of double-v stitch

v stitch dec step 2

v-stitch in each of the next chain 1 spaces

v stitch decrease step 3

dc in turning ch

 

Row 58: ch 3, turn; v-st in each ch1-sp across until only one v-st remains. ch 1

dv decrease 1

Yo and insert your hook in the turning chain gap, yo pull up loop

double v stitch decrease

Yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through last 2 loops to finish the dc

dv decrease

Row 59: ch 3, turn; v-st in each ch1-sp across, dc in turning ch

Row 60: ch 3, turn; dc in 1st st, *ch 1 sk next v-st, dv-st in ch1-sp of next v-st* repeat from * until last v-st, dc in turning ch

Row 61-108: Repeat rows 57 – 60 twelve times

Row 109: ch 3, turn; v-st in each ch1-sp across, dc in turning ch

Row 110: ch 4, turn; dv-st in next ch1-sp, ch 1, sk next v-st, dv-st in next v-st*

Row 111: ch 3, turn; v-st in each ch1-sp across, dc in turning ch

Row 112: ch 3, turn; dc in ch1-sp fasten off

Border:

Around each turning chain or last dc of a row complete a hhdcp picot:

Yo, insert hook into row, yo, pull up loop, yo insert hook into same st, yo, pull up loop. You’ll have 5 loops on your hook

border illustrated

Yo, pull through all loops

border

Chain 3, insert hook into the hhdcp (holes highlighted above). Yo, pull up loop and pull through to complete your picot

border picot help

Make an extra hhdcp-picot at the point of the shawl

border illustrated

Change yarn color. Continue down the shawl until you reach the edge. FO

Border shown
Hanging Hemp laundry bag
Pattern

Delicates Laundry Bag Crochet Pattern

As I transition into using more natural, organic fibers, I find myself still really wanting to use the washing machine. Especially when it’s something like a washcloth or face scrubbies. In comes a delicates bag! It allows me to wash cotton without agitation.

This pattern is super simple. I can imagine making it bigger for other uses but at this size – about 8″x8″ – it’s perfect for a small load of delicate cargo. 

Material:
1 skein of DK weight yarn – I used this yarn by hemp basics.
4.0mm Crochet Hook
A single hole toggle stopper – I used these.

Abbreviations (US Terms):
sl st – slip stitch
ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet

r1: ch2, 8 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. sl st in first hdc. Ch1, turn.
r2: 2hdc in each stitch around (16). sl st in first hdc. Ch 1 turn
r3: *2hdc in next stitch, 1hdc in next* repeat around (24) sl st in first hdc. Ch 1 turn
r4: *2hdc in next stitch, 1hdc in next 2 stitches* repeat around (32) sl st in first hdc. Ch 1 turn
r5: *2 hdc in next stitch, 1hdc in next 3 stitches* repeat around (40) sl st in first hdc. Ch 1 turn
r6: *2hdc in next stitch, 1hdc in next 4 stitches* repeat around (48) sl st in first hdc. Ch 1 turn
r7: *2hdc in next stitch, 1hdc in next 5 stitches* repeat around (56) sl st in first hdc. Ch 1 turn
r8: *2hdc in next stitch, 1hdc in next 6 stitches* repeat around (64) sl st in first hdc. Ch 1 turn
r9: *2hdc in next stitch, 1hdc in next 7 stitches* repeat around (72) sl st in first hdc. Ch 1 turn
r10: *2hdc in next stitch, 1hdc in next 8 stitches* repeat around (80) sl st in first hdc. Ch 4 turn
r11: skip 1 stitch, *dc. ch1 skip next stitch* repeat around (40dc) sl in the 3rd ch of the turning chain.
r12: sl st in next chain 1 space. ch 4 turn. skip 1 stitch, *dc. ch1 skip next stitch* repeat around (40dc) sl in the 3rd ch of the turning chain.
r13-21: repeat r12. finish off

Make the drawstring
Cut 3, 24″ pieces of yarn and tie them together at one end. Braid the three strands together and tie off. Weave your braid through the r21, in and out of the ch1 spaces all the way around.

Insert the two braided ends into your drawstring toggle and tie the ends together so there’s not much excess when the bag is opened. Cut the remainder.

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