Cardigan, Pattern

Coffeeshop Cardigan

Hi Everyone! I’d like to present, the Coffeeshop Cardigan! This cardigan is so cozy. It’s beautifully oversized, with big sleeves and a cinched cuff (I’m pointing that out specifically because I love a baggy sleeve with a nice fitted cuff). ALSO it’s reversible. See, the way I’m wearing it, the color stripes are more subtle and the white is center stage. However, if I turn it inside out the colors really pop!

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Share your work: #coffeeshopcardi @leroocrochet

Materials

Yarn: Vanilla Bean, Blueberry Muffin, Pumpkin Spice and Spilled Coffee on DK from Handmade Home Fibers

However any dk weight or worsted weight yarn will work. Worsted will produce a heavier, warmer cardigan and dk a lighter, springier one

Yardage is as follows:


xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x
total yardage 1500 1600 1700 1850 2000 2150 2300 2450 2600 2700
main color 1019 1082 1145 1239 1334 1428 1523 1617 1712 1805

Hook: 6.5mm hook or size needed to achieve gauge and a hook 1 or 2 sizes smaller

Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors

Gauge: 16 ehdc x 10 rows = 4” x 4”

Sizing: This is designed with plenty of room to fit the following bust sizes

xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x
30” 34” 38” 42” 46” 50” 54” 58” 62” 66”

If you are between sizes, size down for a less oversized fit. 

Pattern Key (US Terms)

st – Stitch
sk – skip
ss – slip stitch
yo – yarn over
fo – finish off
ch – chain
fsc – Foundation Single Crochet
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
ehdc – extended half double crochet
dec – decrease

Special Stitches

ehdc – Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through one loop, yo pull through all loops
dec – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up loop, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through all loops

Pattern Notes (read before starting):

  • Turning chains do not count as a stitch
  • For help with the Foundation Single Crochet there’s a great tutorial with pictures and video here: https://persialou.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc-photo/
  • While you CAN carry your yarn, this cardigan is reversible if striped, so if you’d like to wear it both ways, cut your yarn after each color change and weave. 
  • You can purchase an ad free version of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy

Pattern Instructions:

the sizes are referenced as follows: xs (sm, md, lg, xl, 2x, 3x, 4x, 5x, 6x)

In main color:

Foundation: 148 (164, 180, 196, 212, 228, 244, 260, 276, 292) fsc

Row 1: ch 2, turn; ehdc in each st 

At this point your project should measure 37 (41, 45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65, 69, 73) inches – if it’s too long adjust your hook size 

Change to a secondary color:

Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across

Alternating between the main color and a secondary color:

*Repeat row 2 35 more times for a total of 37 rows – do not finish off 

*Note: For a longer cardigan, add more rows here. For a shorter cardigan, remove some rows

Panel 1:

Using main color

Row 1: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in the next  32 (36, 40, 44, 48,  52, 56, 60, 64, 68) sts, leaving remaining stitches empty. Place a stitch marker in next unworked st

Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across

Repeat row 2 15 (16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21) more times for a total of 17 (18, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23) rows, finish off leaving a long tail

Back Panel:

Using main color, attach your yarn in the same stitch as your stitch marker

Row 1: ch 2, working in third loop, ehdc in the next 84 (92, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132, 140, 148, 156) sts, leaving remaining stitches empty. Place a stitch marker in next unworked st

Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across

Repeat row 2 15 (16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21) more times for a total of 17 (18, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23) rows, finish off

Panel 2: 

Using main color, attach your yarn in the same stitch as your stitch marker

Row 1: ch 2; working in third loop, ehdc in the next 32 (36, 40, 44, 48,  52, 56, 60, 64, 68) sts 

Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across

Repeat row 2 15 (16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21) more times for a total of 17 (18, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23) rows. Finish off leaving a long tale

Seam the Shoulders 

Lay your work flat and fold your side panels over. Seam along the top to close the top of the shoulders with a whip stitch. 

Sleeves – work on both sides:

With wrong side facing (the side where the main color is less visible in the stripes) – Attach your main color yarn to the post of the first row of panel 1. 

Row 1: ch 2, hdc in same post. Work around the stitch posts, hdc in next row, hdc in between next row [see images below for an illustration, you’ll be working 3 hdcs per 2 rows], *hdc in next two rows, hdc in between next row* repeat from * to * until you reach the shoulder seam

hdc into the shoulder seam. Repeat from * to * to the last row. hdc in the two ehdcs of the last row of the body: Sl St into the ch 2 to join

*note: for a larger arm hole, work 2 hdcs per row. 

Change to secondary color

Row 2: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across until 2 sts remain, dec, sl st into the ch 2 to join

Row 3-7: repeat row 2, alternating between main color and secondary color

Row 8: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st across. Sl St into the ch 2 to join

Alternating between main and secondary color, repeat row 8 until you have 32 rows total – or until the sleeve is about 1 inch too short for your arm. 

Row 33: ch 2, turn; working in all loops, *hdc, dec* repeat from * to * around, Sl St into the ch 2 to join

Row 34: ch 2, turn; *hdc, dec* repeat form * to * around.  Sl St into the ch 2 to join Finish off

Sleeve Ribbing

Using a smaller hook, and a secondary color,  attach your yarn to the cuff of your sleeve – wrong side still facing. 

Row 1: ch 10, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [8 hdc], sl st in 2nd st of your cuff, ch 1, sl st in next st of the cuff, turn.

Row 2: hdc in third loop across [8 hdc]

Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc in third loop of st across, sl st in next st of your cuff, ch 1, sl st in

next st, turn

Repeat row 2 and 3 around. Slip Stitch the back loop of both sides together to seam the cuff.  Finish off

Finding the cuff too big? Either lower your hook size, or skip a cuff st every 4 rows – so you cover 5 cuff sts every 4 rib rows. 

Edging

Attach main color to one of the bottom, inside corners of the body.

Row 1: ch 2, hdc evenly up around the neck and back down the body of the cardigan  following the same method as row 1 of the sleeves (3 hdc for every 2 rows) – for the neck line, do only 1 hdc in each st. Do not work along the bottom of the cardigan yet

Row 2-4: ch 2, turn; working in third loop, ehdc in each st

Bottom Ribbing – Switch to a smaller hook (but don’t finish off)

Row 1: Ch 7, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [5 hdc], sl st into the first last row of edging, ch 1, sl st into the next row, turn

Row 2: hdc in third loop across

Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [5 hdc], sl st into the first last row of edging, ch 1, sl st into the next row, turn

Row 4: hdc in third loop across

Row 5: ch 1, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [5 hdc], sl st into the next st of the fsc, ch 1, st st into the next st, turn

Repeat row 4 and 5 across. Finish Off.

If you’re finding the ribbing wavy, either lower your hook size, or skip a fsc st ever 4 rows – so you cover 5 fsc sts every 4 rib rows. 

weave in your ends and block if needed

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Cardigan, Pattern

Celeste Fade Cardigan

Celeste Fade Cardigan modeled

*this post contains affiliated links

The celeste cardigan came to life when I opened a package of yarn and saw the beautiful fade potential. I love the look of fades and these colors were just screaming for the treatment. 

This pattern is done almost entirely with crossed half double crochets and back loop only half double crochets, making it carefree to work on, with no complicated pattern to remember. But the end result is a gorgeous off the rack look. Plus the only seaming is for the pocket!

Share your work with #CelesteCardigan and @leroocrochet

Purchase an ad-free version of this pattern – which includes extra pictures and a color change chart on etsy or ravelry

Materials

Yarn: I used Cosy Posy’s cloud base in the following colors:
Color A: Maple
Color B: Lakehouse
Color C: Wood Burning Outside
Color D: Moonstone

However any fingering weight yarn will work.
Testers used: WoolLike or Cambria by Loops and Threads, Cascade Heritage,  Lion Brand Dotted Line, It’s a Wrap by Red Heart and Lion’s Brand Summer Nights

Yardage is as follows:


xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x
a,b,c 200 275 350 425 500 575 650 725 800 875
d 400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300
pockets 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100
total 1100 1425 1750 2075 2400 2725 3050 3375 3700 4025

a, b, and c refers to the yardage you need of each color

Pockets can be made in any color, they’re on the inside so you can use a mix as well

Hook: 7/4.5mm hook or size needed to achieve gauge, and a size smaller for the ribbing, in my case I used a F/3.75mm 

Notions: 4 stitch markers, Yarn needle for weaving in ends, Scissors 

Gauge: 21st x 15 rows = 4”x4”

chain 23, in 4th ch from hook hdc, hdc backwards in 3rd chain, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat across until 1 stitch remains, hdc
ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped stitch* repeat across until one stitch remains, hdc
repeat until you have 15 rows – swatch should be 4”x4”

Sizing: This cardigan measures 29” long and has a 4 inch ease and is designed to fit the following bust sizes. 

xs sm md lg xl 2x 3x 4x 5x 6x
30” 34” 38” 42” 46” 50” 54” 58” 62” 66”

Pattern Key (US Terms)

st – Stitch
sl st – slip stitch
yo – yarn over
fo – finish off
ch – chain
fsc – Foundation Single Crochet
hdc- half double crochet
blo – back loop only 

Pattern Notes (read before starting):

  • Purchase an ad-free version of this pattern – which includes extra pictures and a color change chart on etsy or ravelry
  • Chains at beginning of each row do NOT count as a stitch
  • This pattern is written working up the back, then down the front. I’ll be referring to the individual parts as “panels” but back panel and front panel 1 are worked without finishing off, and panel 2 is worked directly from the back panel. As a whole, this cardigan is worked as one piece and requires minimal seaming to add pockets 
  • For color fade see the last page for a chart of color changes
  • For help with the Foundation Single Crochet there’s a great tutorial with pictures and video here: https://persialou.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc-photo/

Pattern Instructions:

Back Panel:

Foundation: 95 (105, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155, 165, 175, 185) fsc 

Row 1: ch 2, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st. [47 (52, 57, 62, 67, 72, 77, 82, 87, 92) crossed hdcs]

Row 2: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across, hdc in last st. [47 (52, 57, 62, 67, 72, 77, 82, 87, 92) crossed hdcs] 

Row 3 – 105: Repeat row 2. Do not finish off

Front Panel 1:

Row 106:  ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs] – leave the remainder of the stitches unworked

Row 107 – 129 (131, 133, 135, 137, 139, 141, 143, 145, 147): Repeat row 106

*Row 130 (132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 142, 144, 146, 148): sl st into the post of last st on row 80 (78, 76, 74, 72, 70, 68, 66, 64, 62) of the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in last stitch

Row 177: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8,  9, 10, 12) more times, ch 32, sk 32 sts (16 crossed hdcs), *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to *  0 (1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7,  9,  10, 11) more times, hdc in last stitch [2 (5, 7, 10, 12, 15, 17, 20, 22, 25) crossed hdcs]

Row 178: sl st into the post of last st on the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to *  0 (1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7,  9,  10, 11) more times, *sk 1 ch, hdc in next ch, hdc in skipped ch* repeat from * to * 15 more times, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8,  9, 10, 12) more times hdc in last stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs]

Row 179: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs]

Row 180: sl st into the post of last st on the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in last stitch

Front Panel 2:

Repeat row 179 and 180 until you have 210 rows in total. Finish off

Return to the top of the back panel. Start at the unworked corner and count 36 (42, 46, 52, 56, 62, 66, 72, 76, 82) sts back. Attach your yarn. 

Row 106:  ch 2; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs]

Row 107: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs]

Row 107 – 129 (131, 133, 135, 137, 139, 141, 143, 145, 147): Repeat row 107

*Row 130 (132, 134, 136, 138, 140, 142, 144, 146, 148): ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch, sl st into the post of last st on row 80 (78, 76, 74, 72, 70, 68, 66, 64, 62) of the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row, turn

Row 177: *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7,  9,  10, 11) more times, ch 32, sk 32 sts (16 crossed hdcs), *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8,  9, 10, 12) more times, hdc in last stitch [2 (5, 7, 10, 12, 15, 17, 20, 22, 25) crossed hdcs]

Row 178:  sl st into the post of last st on the back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to *  0 (2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8,  9, 10, 12) more times, *sk 1 ch, hdc in next ch, hdc in skipped ch* repeat from * to * 15 more times, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to *  0 (1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7,  9,  10, 11) more times hdc in last stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs]

Row 179: *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch [18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41)  crossed hdcs]

Row 180: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * 17 (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40) more times, hdc in next stitch, sl st into the post of last st on back panel, ch 1, sl st into next row, turn

Repeat row 179 and 180 until you have 210 rows in total do not finish off

Ribbing – bottom of cardigan 

Using your smaller hook

Row 1: ch 10, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [8 hdc],  sl st in 2nd st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn.

Row 2: hdc blo across [8 hdc blo]

Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc blo in each st across,  sl st in next st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 across the bottom of your cardigan, finishing on row 2. Do not finish off

Ribbing – body of cardigan:

Using your smaller hook

Row 1: ch 14, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [12 hdc], sl st in 2nd st of your bottom ribbing, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn.

Row 2: hdc blo across [12 hdc blo]

Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc blo in each st across,  sl st in next st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 up your front panel, around the top of the back panel, and down the second front panel until you reach the last row of your bottom ribbing. FO

Ribbing – Arms (do for both arm holes):

Using your smaller hook

attach yarn to the base of the arm hole. 

Row 1: ch 10, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across [8 hdc], sl st in 2nd st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn.

Row 2: hdc blo across [8 hdc blo]

Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc blo in each st across,  sl st in next st of your front panel, ch 1, sl st in next st, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 across the arm hole, finishing on row 2, FO leaving a long tail. Seam together the two ends of the arm ribbing. FO

Pockets (do 2):

Switch back to standard hook

With wrong side facing, attach your yarn to the post of the hdc before the 32 ch space, leaving a long tale

Work along the skipped crossed half double crochets: 

Row 1: ch 2, working in top loop only, *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across [16 crossed hdcs], hdc in post of the hdc after the ch 32 gap. 

Row 2: ch 2, turn; *sk 1, hdc, hdc in skipped st* repeat from * to * across until one st remains, hdc in last st

Row 3 – 30: repeat row 2

Finish off. Using the starting tail and a yarn needle, sew the pocket to the back of the sweater, sewing the bottom 29 rows below the ch 32 pocket hole and up along both sides. 

Finish up your cardigan by weaving in ends – blocking if necessary. 

Big thank you to my testers:

Caryn @crochetingwithcaryn
Erin @anxiouslycrafted
Gracita @gracitablom
Jenn @muster.pattern
Kelly james
Kristen @themindieraes
Lindsay @thaddythechi_andlinny
@michellej4001
@Nicolemwardin
Nikki at smileNstitches
Robyn @read.crochet.repeat
Shannon

Purchase an ad-free version of this pattern – which includes extra pictures and a color change chart on etsy or ravelry